Why Does Not The Coil Spin In The Trimmer?

The electric mower or trimmer, like any electrical tool, has a limited service life. With an increase in the intensity of operation for various reasons, the life of the device decreases.

It should be ready that at any time during operation, the electric bobber can break, but such situations can be avoided if you regularly disassemble, inspect and revise all essential elements of the braid.

Malfunctions of electro-scythes can be the most diverse. It can be either a breakdown on the electrical part of the engine and wiring and also on the mechanical part.

In most cases, repair trimmer or braids is not tricky, and you can do on their own in the case when there is a minimal tool and basic concepts in technology. Well, for the readers of the site elektt.blogspot.com, I will reveal the main faults and secrets for the fast and reliable repair of your electric scythes, consider the example of the reconstruction of the Bosch and Gardener trimmers.

The design of most trimmers is not a complicated device, the main components, whether it be a trimmer or a braid, have an electric motor, a power wire, a button with a capacitor, a spool with a fishing line attached to the motor shaft or more complex mechanical versions of braids where the torque from the engine is transmitted to the spool flexible shaft, but among the electric variants of braids this option is rare.

Electrical fault.

To identify electrical faults, it is usually not enough to inspect, and you need a multimeter or at least a tester with a dial.

It is characterized by such faults, as a rule, the complete inoperability of the engine, severe overheating or jerk.

The test starts with the power cable. If it is damaged, it is either repaired or replaced.

The express check involves checking the voltage of 220 volts at the contacts of the engine.

The voltage should appear when pressing the button, and if the energy is present, then we can safely say that the trimmer engine is faulty, it must be disconnected and carefully inspected.

Slight contamination of the collector plates and brushes is normal, but it is still better to clean them with a soft cloth moistened with alcohol, with worn brushes replaced them.

Using a multimeter in the resistance test mode (the smallest limit. Ohms) with the probes we touch the contacts of the brushes or the graphite brushes themselves; the tester should show resistance of no more than 100 Ohms.

If the resistance is infinite (one on the multimeter), then try not removing the probes to turn the motor shaft.

In a working electric motor, the resistance awakens about 10. 40 ohms, if the brushes do not ring out, it means that there is no contact or the integrity of the stator windings is broken, or an open or burnout may occur.

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When the resistance is less than 5 ohms, there is a cross-circuit fault, most likely caused by an intense overheating of the engine.

To identify the specific cause of a motor malfunction when the motor brushes do not ring, you can resort to the following procedure.

Graphite brushes need to be pulled out, having previously thrust out brass inserts or having removed clamping springs.

The collector engines in these devices are so arranged that the stator and rotor windings are connected in series, and in expensive models of electric motors, a thermal switch (110 degrees) is also connected to this series circuit, such a relay usually keeps the power contact closed.

A separate diagnostic method can serve to check the resistance on the plates of the collector drum.

To identify the culprit of the malfunction, it is necessary to remove the insulation in the form of cambric with fluoroplastic where the windings and thermal relay are connected and ring each winding separately with a multimeter, as well as the thermal relay itself.

Mechanical failure.

In electrical circuits, bearings and a trimer coil (spool) can be called the most loaded mechanical elements.

In most cases, the device stops mowing the grass due to the failure of its reel with fishing line.

The line ended. According to the instructions provided, you should reel the line on the reel.

It tangled the fishing line. If the coil has not received any damage, it is necessary to cut or unwind the line and, if necessary, rewind the entire spool.

Leska stuck together. Due to quite intensive work and high overheating, plastic threads of fishing line can be fused. It is necessary to rewind the coil with a new line and inspect the damage to the bobbin itself.

The engine works, but the reel does not rotate. Most likely there was damage to the design of the reel with fishing line. The attachment points of the coil bottom can break off, and you need to disassemble the bobbin completely and, if necessary, modify the mount or replace it altogether. In most electric trimmers, the bobbin is pressed in by its plastic housing onto the motor shaft and, with intense overheating, when the plastic melts, it can turn and fly away altogether.

Both devices did not show any signs of life; when turned on, the engines did not work.

The case of both devices consists of two halves, and self-tapping screws are on the same side, which is convenient in disassembly.

After all the screws have been unscrewed, the upper case is separated from the lower one, gently pressing the flat screwdriver into the slot to open the linked plastic locks.

After disassembly proceeds to the inspection of the entrails and troubleshooting.

During the inspection it was found on the engine Bosch trimmer, On one of the brushes, which is fixed by a pressure spring, a copper conductive wiring fell off, which naturally was the reason for the absence of voltage on the brushes and the engine did not rotate.

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The wire was restored to its place, and along the way, the collector sites were cleaned with a soft cloth soaked in alcohol to a copper sheen. Brushes were in good condition and did not need to be replaced.

It was also established that the switch does not create a reliable electrical contact, it was necessary to clamp the button with an effort, it was decided to disassemble the button, its contacts were cleaned of soot and lubricated with a KONTAKT S-61 spray protection spray.

WITH Electric GARDENER it was not so simple, she lay for quite a long time in a broken condition, and in the literal sense of the word “broken”, her bar in the place of attachment of the engine body was broken in half apparently its conditions were so severe.

With the help of perforated plates from the fastenings, the metal of the profile was not tricky to make a new mounting of the engine housing to the rod electrocutes. The integrity of the structure has been restored, albeit not aesthetically, but reliably, because of its main functionality in electro-mowing.

The engine shaft was noticeably hard to roll, and during the internal inspection, burnt collector plates and worn brushes were found. The plates were cleaned with sandpaper, and the brushes were replaced with new ones.

Because of the great work without lubrication and subsequent storage of the device in aggressive media, the bearings are slightly stuck, and the motor shaft does not naturally rotate with difficulty.

The engine bearings were flushed with a WD-40 spray, followed by lubrication. As a result, the engine began to rotate noticeably better, but still, the bearings were already “broken,” and when the engine was operating from the network, the sound of its operation was not so smooth and monotonous.

Further inspection of the electrical part led to the button, and it was completely broken from its mounts, although it was pressed, the tester showed its malfunction. The button is not collapsible, so it was replaced with a new one. Mounts had to restore hot melt.

In addition to the broken bar, there was a crack on the plastic protection. Someone did not drop it too weakly. Kosa could work with her, but it was decided, as far as possible, to restore the protection design.

It is natural to glue such an object, loaded and subject to shocks, with a glue, it would not be a reliable solution. Therefore, using the same perforated plates from the metal profile, two brackets were made that created a “monolithic” connection of the two parts of the cracked case.

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The plates were connected to the body with aluminum rivets.

When the trimmer was assembled, it was discovered that the bar in the attachment points of the handle was loosely fastened and turned. Therefore the important points of the plastic protrusions of the handle body with the metal bar were additionally sealed with a strip of rag tape. Now the design has no excess backlash.

The main most common faults electrocosm and trimmers.

In the reel ended fishing line. In most spools, the net feed is semi-automatic, with a slight blow of the spring-loaded button on the ground, the fishing line is fed to the exit. If the fishing line is not served, then you need to remove and disassemble the spool. spool and, if necessary, wind the new fishing line.

The fishing line may be too long because the blade which is meant for cutting off the excess length of the fishing line was dull or not at all.

The length of the fishing line should be slightly less than the diameter of protection.

Vibration at work.

A massive rumble and vibration when the engine is running may indicate that the bearings need lubrication or they have completely exhausted their resources.

It may also crack the body of the reel with a fishing line (spool), and its place of attachment must be inspected for cracks and damage.

Most electric motors in braids and trimmers are the collector and do not have a speed controller, with a decrease in the voltage in the network. speed and power decrease.

A spool of fishing line may be incorrectly wound.

Perhaps the speed is hampered by the presence of a stuck twig, or a rope is wound on the shaft, the structure should be inspected. In a serviceable spit, the shaft should turn quickly and without the slightest effort even after it was dispersed with a finger.

Electric Mow does not work.

Doesn’t the motor spin? We look at the availability of power on the electric plug, and if everything is in order, then the device needs to be disassembled.

If no visible damage is noticeable, then begin progressive dialling of the device’s electrical circuits.

Using a multimeter (tester), you first ring the power cord, fuse if there is one and the button.

If the button does not ring in the switched on the state, then it should be replaced or if it is collapsible, then open and clean burnt contacts.

The cord may be interrupted, in which case the engine may start up intermittently.

A motor malfunction may be the fact that when the button is on, the motor’s contacts have a voltage of 220 volts but it does not rotate.

Some electric motors are equipped with a thermal fuse that is built into the engine block and triggered from overheating or failed. A healthy thermal fuse during engine cooling should restore its operation.