How to adjust the carburetor on chainsaws
To understand how to properly adjust the carburetor on a chainsaw, you need to see it, and therefore we invite the reader to pay attention to the example below.
To make the adjustment, you only need a slotted screwdriver, however, it will not be possible to perfectly fine-tune the carburetor without a tachometer (of course, if the person is not a minder or a professional driver with experience). Now let’s try to understand how to set up the carburetor in a given situation.
How does a chainsaw carburetor work, on what principle does it work
Modern car engines are no longer equipped with a carburetor. Meanwhile, before, almost every driver knew how to adjust it. Today, chainsaws with injection engines have already begun to appear on sale, however, carburetor models will hold the palm for a long time, because their cost is 5-15 times lower than that of the modernized version.
The carburetor consists of several main parts:
- aluminum body;
- diffuser and air damper at the inlet;
- nozzles (valves for adjusting the fuel supply);
- atomizer (it is he who provides injection);
- fuel (float) chamber.
The principle of operation of a chainsaw carburetor is quite simple. Fuel is supplied continuously, and its quantity is regulated by jets. Air enters through the air damper due to the air vacuum generated by the piston. The diffuser mixes fuel and air. It is this fuel-air mixture that enters the cylinder, forcing the engine to work.
How to set up a chainsaw carburetor if it won’t start at all
Quite a common problem in those cases when the “master” from the “I know everything” series tries to get into the settings with hands that do not grow from the shoulders. In such a case, there are standard screw positions from which you can “dance” further. First, you need to completely tighten both screws (do not overdo it). Then unscrew:
- screw L. one revolution;
- screw H. one and a half turn.
With regard to the idle screw, the throttle must first be completely closed (screw T unscrewed). After that, it must be cranked one and a half turns clockwise and try to start the engine. If it did not work out, it is gradually added by a quarter of a turn before starting. When the engine starts to work, the position of the idle screw is adjusted so that the internal combustion engine does not stall, but the chain is still in place.
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Determining the need to adjust the carburetor on a chainsaw
Before you start adjusting the carburetor on a chainsaw, you need to make sure that it is generally required. It would seem an absurd phrase. However, in 90% of cases, when an inexperienced craftsman considers such an action necessary, the unstable operation of the instrument is associated with other reasons, including:
- problems in fuel lines and filter. blockages, depressurization;
- malfunction of the exhaust system;
- clogged or damaged air filter;
- unstable operation of the ignition system;
- violation of the tightness of the crankcase of the internal combustion engine.
Only if these problems are excluded, and the engine is unstable, it is safe to say that carburetor adjustment is required.
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Mechanic at home: adjusting the carburetor of a chainsaw with your own hands
Any internal combustion engine requires periodic maintenance, It doesn’t matter if it is the engine of a simple moped or a powerful multi-ton tractor. Such a tool as a chainsaw was no exception. After all, it is equipped with a single-cylinder two-stroke internal combustion engine, which also requires serious maintenance, although it is much easier to perform the necessary actions here. In today’s article we will talk about how to adjust the carburetor of a chainsaw with our own hands, find out how difficult it is, and figure out whether you need to be a professional mechanic to do this kind of work.
How to correctly and accurately adjust the carburetor: step by step instructions
In order to make the information easier to perceive, we propose to consider it on the basis of photo examples with a description of actions in tabular form. The basis is a chainsaw with initial settings.
You can learn more about the master class on adjusting the carburetor of a chainsaw in this video.
The second most important structural element of the chainsaw, which ensures the supply of an air-fuel mixture to the combustion chamber. If the chainsaw does not start on a cold one and the cause of the carburetor problems, this is usually due to damage to the membrane that pumps the fuel. Of course, the malfunctions of such an accurate and even jewelry device are not limited to one pump and can come from the nozzle, adjusting screws and banal clogging of holes.
Since the carburetor is not of the simplest design, it is necessary to remove, and even more so to disassemble the device with utmost care and accuracy. Of course, it is better to hand over the defective device to a specialist, but you can actually do some work yourself. The nuances of removing the carburetor from the system, visual inspection and replacing the membrane are set out below.
Depending on the model of the chainsaw, the attachment points of the element may differ, and in addition to the fixing screws, it must be disconnected from other components. Before removing the carburetor, it is necessary to disconnect the throttle lever and gas traction from it. Next, the screws / nuts are unscrewed, which can be located on different sides of the case. After removing all fasteners, it remains to disconnect 2 fuel hoses and the carburetor can be removed.
The most commonplace and at the same time quite common problem with the launch can arise due to the usual carelessness. If the fuel level in the chainsaw tank is low, the fuel hose with a filter cannot be completely immersed in it and pumped over. Especially often this situation happens when the chainsaw does not start hot, after a short break. Although even after cooling down, without the required amount of fuel, the engine will no longer start.
To exclude such a variant of events from the list of possible problems with starting the engine, it is enough to monitor the fuel level in the tank and regularly fill it with a high-quality mixture.
Optimum fuel performance may vary depending on the model of your particular chain saw. The ratio of oil to gasoline can be from 1 to 25 to 1 to 50. The permissible octane rating of gasoline can be 80, 92 or 95 (usually 92). Many manufacturers recommend the use of specific grades of oils, whose composition is ideal for interaction with the alloy from which the engine and carburetor are made.
Details for each malfunction
Having considered the main problem areas and having determined the area of recovery work, you can proceed to a more detailed analysis of each cause separately. The instructions below follow as the set-up complexity increases. The most banal, simple options require a minimum of time and a regular set of tools for servicing a chainsaw. For more serious damage, a set of socket wrenches and a compression gauge may be required (to check the engine).
Perhaps the most popular problem with starting a chainsaw is the lack of a spark to ignite the fuel. Such a malfunction may be associated with contamination or damage to the spark plug, high-voltage wire, contacts or generator (flywheel and magneto). The most accessible and easy-to-diagnose element is a candle, so the check should start with it.
The first step is to gain access to the potential source of damage. On most chainsaws, the spark plug is located on top, near the carburetor, but there are models where this element is below.
Using a special hex head (included with the saw), the candle is unscrewed from the socket, after which it is visually inspected. Contacts must be clean and dry. If carbon deposits are present on the spark plug, then the fuel-to-air ratio in the combustion block is higher than normal and the carburetor needs adjustment. The presence of a fuel mixture on the contacts indicates an excessive supply of fuel, which can also be adjusted with a special screw on the carburetor. The first thing to do in this situation is to check the performance of the candle.
Before checking, remove carbon deposits (if any) and dry the element completely. You should also check the gap between the spark plug contacts, which should not exceed 1 mm (ideally 0.7 mm). Next, it remains to connect the candle to the high-voltage wire (candlestick) coming from the generator and pull the starter. The presence of a spark will indicate that the ignition system is in good working order and the need for further adjustment of the carburetor.
If the chainsaw does not start, the plug is dry, but there is no spark, the breakdown should be looked for in the ignition system itself. Usually, the lack of momentum when rotating the shaft is due to the displacement of the magneto in relation to the flywheel. On average, the optimal distance between the above elements should be 0.25 mm (4-5 notebook sheets). To gain access to the magneto, you must unscrew the side case cover. To adjust, it is enough to loosen the fixing bolts of the magneto, lay sheets of paper between it and the flywheel, press and tighten.
If the gap calibration does not give a result, you should check (visually / by ringing) the high voltage wire going to the candlestick. In the presence of confident contact, the area of malfunction is narrowed down to one detail. magneto. It should be replaced or contact a service for repair.
Reasons why the chainsaw won’t start
Among the malfunctions responsible for starting the mechanism, one can distinguish simple. when restoration does not require specific knowledge, and complex. when an engine or carburetor requires repair. Solving simple problems, in 90% of cases, comes down to cleaning or replacing easily accessible components. complex breakdowns may require almost complete disassembly of key system components, followed by replacement of damaged elements.
If the tool has been used with care and according to the manufacturer’s requirements, there is a high probability of a slight malfunction. A banal lack of fuel in the tank, a violation of the sequence of actions at start, the absence of a spark, clogged filters and breather and similar problems, due to which the chainsaw usually does not start. The reasons and nuances of the solution are summarized in the following list (further in more detail):
Lack of fuel may seem to be the most obvious reason for a launch failure, but cases of contacting the service about this occasionally happen. It seems like enough gasoline is splashing in the tank, but the filter on the fuel hose does not allow the carburetor to pull it in from almost the bottom. In this case, you should simply fill the tool at least half.
The correct sequence of actions before starting, greatly facilitates the starting procedure. Violation of the algorithm can not only complicate the launch, but also make it completely impossible. The process should be as follows: 3-4 presses on the primer to supply fuel to the carburetor, closing the air damper (lever towards you) and several confident rotations of the starter until the chainsaw starts for a split second, after which it stalls. Next, it remains to open the air damper, start and you can use.
The lack of spark could be due to a faulty spark plug or ignition system. The candle can be dirty or deformed, which can be solved by cleaning, easy repair or replacement. The problem with the ignition system may be associated with an incorrect gap between the flywheel and the coil, the gap between which should not exceed 0.35 mm. If the adjustment does not help, the system should be replaced.
Clogged filters (air and fuel) restrict the supply of substances vital to the engine, making it impossible to start or reducing its efficiency. On a new saw, this problem will not exist, and these elements should be checked after prolonged use. The fuel filter is attached to the hose in the tank, and the air filter is attached to the carburetor.
The fuel tank breather is designed to stabilize the pressure by supplying the required volume of air, instead of the decreasing volume of gasoline. When the breather becomes clogged, the gas tank will become sealed and pumping out the gasoline will create a vacuum in it. When the pressure threshold is reached, the carburetor will not be able to suck in fuel and supply it to the cylinder. If, when unscrewing the tank cap, air is abruptly sucked into it, then the breather is clogged and requires cleaning.
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Carbon deposits on the exhaust valve or muffler can impede the removal of exhaust gases generated by engine operation. In this case, the chainsaw may stall immediately after starting, or not start at all. The problem arises after prolonged use of the instrument and is solved by cleaning the channels.
serious damage is associated with the carburetor and engine. Repairing these elements requires some experience, and a person with minimal knowledge of the operation of an internal combustion engine should not take it on. You can independently adjust the carburetor, check the compression and replace the membrane (more on this below), but it is better to entrust the complete replacement of the CPG to a specialist.
Chainsaw won’t start: causes and remedies
As the engine runs, the fuel burned in the cylinder forms exhaust gases, some of which settle inside the resonator, spark arrestor and muffler. The carbon layer gradually increases, filling the internal space and reducing the throughput of the channel for the removal of the spent body. Insufficient exhaust or complete stagnation of exhaust gases in the cylinder impedes the flow of fresh air, as a result of which the engine reduces power or stops working.
serious malfunctions remain damage to the carburetor diaphragm pump. This option should be considered only after checking the previous ones. In this case, it is recommended for experienced users to carry out self-repairs (the process is described below). If the design of the mechanism is not familiar, it is better to contact the service.
The opposite problem to a complete lack of fuel supply may be associated with an excess of fuel. The carburetor can feed too much mixture into the combustion chamber by filling the spark plug. You can verify the malfunction by unscrewing the candle and turning the chainsaw upside down (if the candle is installed on top). If fuel leaks out of the hole, the carburetor needs adjustment. You can try to fix the problem yourself by tightening the adjusting screws H and L. A more detailed analysis of the problem is presented in the following video.
Checking the condition of the fuel and air filters.
If everything is in order with the fuel quality, the chainsaw engine may not start due to clogged fuel and air filters. To diagnose these elements, it will be necessary to perform a number of manipulations associated with their dismantling.
For the fuel filter:
- Disconnect the gasoline supply channel from the carburetor;
- Pump up fuel.
If there is little or no pressure in the pipe, disconnect the filter. Before that, free the tank from the mixture and remove the filter element itself. Dismantling is done with a wire hook. A clogged replacement cartridge that causes a poor starting of the chainsaw engine can be cleaned, but it is best to replace it with a new one. When using the tool in dusty conditions, it should be cleaned on a regular basis.
A clogged air filter can cause the chainsaw engine to run erratically, making it stalling or difficult to start. Dust and dirt deposited on the adsorbent material make it difficult for air to enter the system, make the fuel mixture so rich that it will sometimes be difficult to start the tool.
Checking the air filter is one of the first steps in finding the cause of a poor start.
Care should be taken when removing the air filter, as dust accumulated on the surface of the saw during operation can enter the carburetor. And this is fraught with more expensive repairs. After detaching the cartridge, thoroughly clean it from the accumulated dirt and rinse it with the addition of detergent. Dry the element and put it back in place just as carefully.
Chainsaw outlet check.
One of the reasons that a chainsaw does not start well may be a clogged exhaust channel or its muffler. At the same time, a drop in power is noted in the process of sawing sawn timber and logs. This is most often due to resinous deposits on the spark arrestor or muffler channel, which are formed during the combustion of a poor-quality mixture of gasoline and oil, which impede the removal of exhaust gases.
Resonator clogged with carbon deposits can cause poor starting of the gasoline saw.
Eliminate the reason for the poor start of the chainsaw, in this case, you can remove the accumulated combustion products. To do this, perform a number of manipulations:
- Remove the muffler by unscrewing the screws;
- Remove the cooling panel and gasket;
- Remove the spark arrestor;
- Disassemble the resonator housing;
- Wash all elements from carbon deposits with a detergent;
- Let them dry completely;
- Collect everything in reverse order;
To prevent dust and sand from entering the cylinder when cleaning the muffler, cover the outlet of the chainsaw engine with a clean rag.
Determine the availability of fuel and its supply.
First you need to make sure that there is a fuel mixture in the tank of a chainsaw that does not want to start, and it regularly enters the carburetor. With a full tank, we check how the mixture is fed through the gas line. Disconnect the fuel system pipe from the carburetor and try to pump it up. In the case of a complete order, when pumping up, gasoline will be supplied in jerks in accordance with the norms set by the manufacturer. Poor or no fuel supply may result from:
- The fuel supply channel is clogged;
- Debris-clogged fuel filter.
Often the reason for a poor start of the chainsaw can be a tank that is too full. In this case, you should pay attention to the presence of smudges under the saw case cover. If present, see the connection of the gasoline feed pipe to the carburetor. Most often, it is squeezed out by pressure when the tank cap is screwed on, which is filled under the very neck, which prevents the engine from starting.
The quality of the fuel mixture can also be one of the reasons why the chainsaw does not start. If, after completing the work, the remaining gasoline is not drained, and the tool is left for long-term storage (more than 2 weeks), then the processes of resin formation and polymerization of the components will begin to occur inside the tank. What can cause carbon deposits on the piston, rings and cylinder liner. Therefore, always prepare the mixture only in the required amount before work.
Finding reasons why the chainsaw won’t start
Amateur and professional chainsaws are complex devices. The service life of their two-stroke engines, components and assemblies has its own limitations. For this reason, quite reliable and expensive tools, along with cheap Chinese units, periodically fail and refuse to start. The situation when the chainsaw does not start or stalls is not very pleasant and sometimes confuses the user. How to identify and correct a malfunction by returning the instrument to work.
- Identifying and eliminating obvious chainsaw malfunctions.
- Checking the spark on the spark plug and eliminating the causes.
- Determine the availability of fuel and its supply.
- Checking the condition of the fuel and air filters.
- Checking the breather and cleaning it.
- Chainsaw outlet check.
- What to do if the chainsaw won’t start further?
Checking the breather and cleaning it.
The breather is another element, from the improper operation of which the chainsaw may not start or stall during the sawing process. This element is located on the fuel tank cap in the area of the air hole. This is a kind of valve that does not allow gasoline to flow out and equalizes the air pressure required for the free flow of fuel into the carburetor.
If the breather is dirty, the working chainsaw stalls, and when started, it refuses to start. The thing is that air stops flowing through the hole. As a result, a negative pressure (vacuum) is created inside the fuel tank, preventing the flow of gasoline to the carburetor.
Defining the problem is pretty straightforward. Disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and see what happens to the gasoline. If it flows freely in a good trickle, then everything is in order with the breather. If it is absent or it flows weakly and intermittently, then the reason is identified. the breather is clogged with dirt. You can solve the problem by cleaning the air hole with a regular needle or a powerful jet of compressed air.
Identifying and eliminating obvious chainsaw malfunctions.
To determine the reason why the chainsaw does not start or stalls when starting, it is necessary to troubleshoot the tool. The essence of the procedure is to consistently inspect the condition and operation of the main working elements of the saw motor. At this stage, we check:
- Spark plug present;
- Fuel supply;
- Filter status;
- The operation of the breather of the stalling unit built into the fuel cap;
- Discharge duct function.
to the content
Checking the spark on the spark plug and eliminating the causes.
The first step in finding the reasons why the gasoline saw won’t start is to check the spark on the spark plug. There are many factors that affect the performance of this element. However, the main ones at the initial stage of instrument troubleshooting are:
- Incorrect carburetor adjustment;
- The presence of more than it should be, the amount of oil in gasoline;
- Clogged air filter.
All of them contribute to the formation of carbon deposits on the spark plug electrodes. In 50 cases out of 100, the saws do not start on a cold one due to the absence of a spark due to carbon deposits on the electrodes and their corrosion. As a result, the gap either decreases or increases.
Checking the spark plug with an idle chainsaw
It is quite easy to check for a spark. This will require:
- Remove the tip of the high-voltage wire;
- Unscrew the candle;
- Put the tip back on;
- Lean the candle with a skirt against the cylinder;
- Start with a starter.
If a good spark is observed between the electrodes at the time of starting the engine of the chainsaw, then everything is in order with the ignition unit. If it is not there, then it is worth cleaning the element itself and checking the gap of the electrodes. If necessary, use a special probe to adjust the distance between the contacts.
For candles from different manufacturers, the distance between the electrodes may fluctuate. For some, it may be equal to 0.5 mm. Others have 0.2 mm. Therefore, carefully study the manufacturer’s recommendations.
There may be no spark on the spark plug for other reasons. Of the main faults affecting the poor start of the chainsaw and the unstable operation of the internal combustion engine at idle, from which the tool can stall, the following can be attributed:
- Overflow of the spark plug channel with fuel;
- Lack of contact between the high-voltage cradle and the tip of the candle;
- Failure of the ignition unit.
How to start a cold chainsaw if the spark plug channel is constantly flooding with gasoline? To eliminate the problem while starting the tool, you can use the following algorithm:
- Unscrew the candle with a special key;
- Wipe it with a clean and dry cloth;
- Dry for 20. 30 minutes;
- Remove carbon deposits with a file and adjust the gap between the electrodes;
- Drain the remaining fuel from the spark plug channel and dry it;
- Collect everything and try to start the mechanism.
As a rule, these measures are enough to start the chainsaw and get the job done. However, this extreme measure does not eliminate the main reason why the engine does not start or stalls. improper operation of the carburetor, which needs fine adjustment.
If there is no spark and poor contact of the high-voltage cradle with the spark plug tip, check the connection. The check can be done using a conventional tester. If a defect is found and it is eliminated, the chainsaw should start without any problems.
If the check showed that the contact is reliable, and the saw does not start further, look for the cause in the ignition unit. As a rule, a faulty unit cannot be repaired and restored. A complete replacement is required here.
What to do if the chainsaw won’t start further?
If the initial inspection did not give anything or the defects were eliminated during the search, and the chainsaw does not start further, then you need to look for more serious reasons. It is best to identify and eliminate such breakdowns in a service center. However, with experience, you can find and eliminate them yourself. What to diagnose and check?
- Compression in the cylinder;
- Compression in the crankcase;
- Carburetor operation.
In the first case, checking the compression in the cylinder will allow you to find out the state of the cylinder-piston group (CPG) of a chainsaw that does not want to start cold. For this you need a compressometer. The device is screwed into place of the spark plug and the engine is idle. Measurement of readings allows you to judge the state of the CPG. In the absence of a compression gauge, the compression in the cylinder can be determined offhand as follows:
- Place your finger on the candle hole;
- Try to start the chainsaw engine.
By placing your finger on the spark plug hole and pulling the starter, you can check the compression in the cylinder.
If you feel that your finger is pulling strongly into the candle channel, then everything is in order with the compression. The absence of vacuum in the chamber indicates a malfunction. The cylinder-piston group needs a more detailed inspection, which will give an idea of the condition of the piston and cylinder, piston rings and bearings.
The chainsaw may not start on a cold one due to the lack of compression in the engine crankcase. The main reason for this is damage to the gasket placed between the cylinder and the crankcase. It is quite easy to detect the lack of compression:
- Disconnect the upper tube from the carburetor;
- Pour gasoline into a regular cork;
- We immerse the removed tube in the fuel;
- We pull the starter several times.
If the fuel is sucked from the cap when starting the chainsaw starter, then everything is in order with the compression. If not, see the gasket.
If the fuel is drawn in, then everything is in order. the gasket is intact. Otherwise, you will have to purchase a repair kit and replace it. How to do this watch the video, why the Chinese chainsaw does not start:
Starting the tool can be complicated by improper operation of the carburetor or its breakage. It often happens that during the sawing process, the fastening screws are loosened and air is sucked into the cylinder. Check that the carburetor is securely fastened. Inspect it for fuel leaks. There can be a lot of reasons for the malfunction. It is possible to pinpoint the malfunction, eliminate it and fine-tune the carburetor only in a service center.
After going through the step-by-step troubleshooting of the chainsaw engine, you can find the malfunction, fix it yourself and successfully start your working tool. Do not take on jobs that you are not sure about. Entrust the troubleshooting to specialists from the service center.
Chainsaw starts and stalls: reason, video
- The most commonplace reason why the chainsaw started up and stalled may be the low fuel level in the tank. This can be confirmed by stopping the operation of the tool when tilting, when the remaining fuel accumulates in a certain place in the fuel tank. With low-quality fuel, there may also be a problem with the operation of the chainsaw, in this case, you need to completely replace it.
- Breather blockage, which significantly reduces fuel consumption to the engine.
- Insufficient contact of the wire cap with the plug, which leads to strong heating of the plug insulator. Deterioration of contact can occur due to mechanical shear or carbon deposits.
- Broken spark plugs.
- Clogged muffler, which impairs exhaust gas output, causing the engine to stop running. For this reason, the chainsaw can start and stall at idle speed. Sediment in the muffler can also appear due to poor-quality fuel or improper use of the tool.
- Poor carburetor adjustment.
- Breakage of the piston group
- Fuel filter or pump problems. In this case, gasoline may flow through the pump or poorly flow through the fuel filter to the carburetor. As a result, the chainsaw starts up and stalls when the speed increases.
- Dirty air filter. Problems with this piece of equipment lead to the fact that, with increased loads on the engine, it simply cannot cope with them due to blockage and stops. A similar result is also obtained with an increase in revolutions.
- Short circuit due to lack of or insufficient lubrication, or a problem with the chain brake.
The reasons why the chainsaw starts and stalls
A chainsaw has long been not a luxury, but a necessary tool for those who have a summer cottage or home ownership. But, like any other technique, this tool tends to fail, despite the simple device.
The classification of the main faults includes:
- complete absence of engine plant
- the engine starts and stalls
- unstable tool performance
- work stop under load
- loss of power.
If the chainsaw does not start at all, the reason may be as follows:
- Manufacturing defect
- Lack of fuel
- Problems with starting the ignition system
- No spark from spark plugs
- Poor fuel mixture
- Carburetor clogged
- High voltage wire problems
- No compression.
Why does the chainsaw start and stall, what to do in this case? It is necessary to consider in detail the reasons for this.
Why the chainsaw does not start well and stalls
In case of poor start-up of the equipment “to cold”, the problem may be in the absence of compression, i.e. rings are worn out due to a long service life, they need to be replaced. Sometimes the reason that the engine does not start well in an unheated state is a problem with the muffler, as well as poor contact between the spark plug and the wire.
Also, the reasons for a poor start can be wear or damage to the gasket, rubber cuff in the accelerator pump of the carburetor, due to which there is an additional flow of air, leading to an increase in the speed of the saw.
If the chainsaw starts and stalls, the cause can be eliminated on your own. If it is a shortage or improperly prepared fuel mixture, it must be corrected. For prophylaxis during the idle time of the chainsaw, you should always drain the remaining fuel.
Spark plugs should be checked periodically. In this case, remove carbon deposits that clog the joint gap, and also check the tips for the presence of fuel. Another cause of spark plug problems can be when they get wet with gasoline. To do this, they need to be removed, wiped off with a rag and left to dry. Defective spark plugs are replaced.
If there is no spark between the spark plug and the high-voltage wire, but if there is a good connection, the ignition unit must be replaced.
A clogged muffler is a common cause of breakdown, in which the chainsaw starts up and stalls immediately. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to dismantle the muffler, clean it from carbon deposits using sandpaper or a special chemical solution. If the model of the chainsaw is non-separable, chemicals are poured into the system and are there for several hours, then it is blown.
The carburetor must be adjusted if the chainsaw stalls at idle speed. Fine tuning is a rather laborious process, so it is usually done in service centers. But, on some models there are elements for setting it up, just turn the bolt half a turn to increase the speed of the chainsaw, the problems will be eliminated. If the jets, nozzles, channels and filters are clogged, the entire carburetor must be disassembled and cleaned. When the oil seals, gaskets, cuffs are worn out, it is necessary to replace them, preventing air leakage.
If there is a problem with the fuel or air filter, it is necessary to replace the fuel pump or clean the air filter.
If the breather is clogged, it must be cleaned with a regular needle.
When the chainsaw starts up and immediately stalls, the reason may lie in the malfunctioning of the chain. To troubleshoot problems, check the presence of oil in the chain lubrication container, as well as the oil return pipe for breaks or blockages.
When inspecting the piston group, pay attention to the cylinder; if necessary, replace it or the piston. The cylinder can be bored to fit the new piston. If the piston with the cylinder is normal, you should pay attention to the defects of the piston rings and the need to replace them.
Among other things, you should control the service life of the parts specified in the product passport, which include the drive sprocket, tire, chain, part of the anti-vibration system, and replace them in time.
If the tool is idle for a long time, it is worth checking the condition of the fuel line. If the tube is cracked, you will have to replace it with a new one.
Checking and subsequent replacement of defective membranes
Stihl 180 chainsaw carburetor membrane repair kit
How to fix a flooded chainsaw
Carburetor repair and cleaning without spare parts
There are situations in life in which it is simply vital to repair the saw, but the necessary components are not at hand. For such cases, there is the following method: take out the carburetor, remove the membranes, and then put the rest in acetone and let it soak. Acetone will remove debris that is blocking the passage of various fluids. This method will not hit your. but it is not reliable. Such repairs will not ensure the long operation of the chainsaw, since outdated membranes have not been replaced.
Common malfunctions of the Stihl 180 carburetor
Malfunctions that can be solved by repairing the carburetor: It is worth noting that the diagnostics cannot always correctly indicate the problem. There are times when, due to different reasons, the same “symptom” occurs. And sometimes diagnostics can give false information, as a result of which you cannot correctly eliminate the cause of the breakdown. Pay due attention to diagnostics, but do not overestimate its importance.
The tool does not hold idle revolutions, and sometimes the revolutions “walk”. Most likely the idle jet is clogged. It is urgent to clean it, otherwise the saw will not be able to perform its functions. Another possible cause is a malfunction of the fuel system.
Sometimes this problem is solved by unclogging the valve that restricts the fuel tank. This valve regulates the output of gasoline and the passage of air. Do not forget to adjust the carburetor by changing the amount of air that is supplied to it. details about this operation can be found in the instructions included with the brand new chainsaw.
The carburetor of the Stihl chainsaw, without disassembling, can only be adjusted for the number of revolutions produced at idle. It is impossible to increase or decrease the fuel supply in various modes. Manufacturers have limited access to this adjustment by removing special screws. If faults are found in this system, it is possible, with experience, to increase the gap between the needle valve and the wall.
The saw does not start. The solution is the same as in the previous paragraph.
The tool began to consume more fuel, while its power was significantly reduced. Gasoline consumption and power are subjective concepts. To accurately determine these indicators, you can not do without visiting special firms specializing in this tool.
Well, if these two indicators are visible “on the face”, then follow these steps:
Check if the chain is dull. A dull chain has a lower efficiency, and therefore the saw consumes more fuel.
Examine the fuel tank. Perhaps it has formed a small mechanical damage, through which gasoline leaves imperceptibly.
Examine the muffler carefully.
Clean the cooling system and exhaust system.
The unit stalls immediately after operation or warming up. Experts call it hot.
The most common reasons are:
- Lack of air entering the carburetor. Replace inlet and outlet valves.
- Breakdown of the cooling system (overheating). It is possible that foreign objects have entered the pipes with cold air, which will need to be removed.
- Chainsaw stalls when position is changed. This only applies to tilting to the side, in the vertical state the saw functions normally. This problem even applies to serviceable chainsaws, because during the development the designers made a small mistake. The Stihl 180 fuel system has a special design, in which the fuel cannot escape from the tank on its side. Sometimes the problem lies in the clogging of the fuel pump.
The procedure for parsing, as well as tuning the carburetor of the Stihl 180 chainsaw: In order to carry out a high-quality repair of the carburetor, you will need to remove it. This is not difficult to do, but you need to be extremely careful. First, we will prepare the workplace: install the lighting, lay out all the necessary tools. Understand that the carburetor is the main saw unit where the fuel and gasoline flows intersect. For stable operation, they must be cleaned of foreign debris.
Therefore, before the main work, you need to do the following:
- Remove and clean the muffler.
- Make sure there are no problems with fuel supply and combustion.
- Check the serviceability of the air and cooling filters.
The main stages of work (removal of the carburetor)
The best option would be to watch a training video. Fortunately, there are dozens of them on the Internet. There they will tell you everything in detail and professionally. As the saying goes: “It is better to see once than hear a hundred times” (in our case, read it). Schematically, this process can be written as follows: remove the protective cover, remove the rods and, finally, unscrew the unit to work with it.
Stihl 180 chainsaw performance
|Engine displacement (ml)||31.8|
|Max power (hp)||2.0|
|Max speed (rpm)||14000|
|Weight (without bar, chain, oil and fuel) (kg)||3.9|
|Fuel tank volume (ml)||250.0|
|Oil tank volume (ml)||145.0|
Repair and adjustment of the carburetor of the Stihl 180 chainsaw
The Stihl 180 is a German chainsaw designed for gardening, logging, site clearing and other woodworking. Many people love it for its compactness and ease of use. The tool combines seemingly opposite qualities. power and maneuverability. German designers have tried to create this sample, but the MS 180 Stihl also has disadvantages that users face in various operating modes. Like all mechanisms, it tends to fail. What to do in such cases and is it worth contacting the workshops?
Characteristics of Stihl chainsaws
|Model||Working volume (cm 3)||Power (kW / hp)||Weight, kg)||Specific gravity (kW / kg)||Standard tire (cm)||Standard chain||Launch aids||Chain tensioner||engine’s type|
|Petrol-powered saws for sawing firewood and for maintenance of the land|
|MS 170||30.1||1.3 / 1.7||3.9||3.0||35||50. 3/8 ″ P.1.3||In front||2-stroke|
|MS 180||31.8||1.5 / 2.0||3.9||2.6||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3||–||In front||2-stroke|
|MS 180 C-BE||31.8||1.5 / 2.0||4.2||2.8||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3||ErgoStart||Fast||2-stroke|
|MS 181||31.8||1.5 / 2.0||4.3||2.9||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P- 1.3||–||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 181 C-BE||31.8||1.5 / 2.0||4.6||3.1||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P- 1.3||ErgoStart||Fast||2-MIX|
|MS 192 C-E||30.1||1.3 / 1.8||3.3||2.5||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3||ErgoStart||Lateral||2-stroke|
|MS 211||35.2||1.7 / 2.3||4.3||2.5||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3||–||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 211 C-BE||35.2||1.7 / 2.3||4.6||2.7||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3||ErgoStart||Fast||2-MIX|
|MS 230||40.2||2.0 / 2.7||4.6||2,3||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3||–||In front||2-stroke|
|MS 231||40.6||2.0 / 2.7||4.9||2.4||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3||–||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 250||45.4||2.3 / 3.1||4.6||2.0||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3||–||Lateral||2-stroke|
|MS 250 C-BE||45.4||2.3 / 3.1||4.9||2.2||40||55-3 / 8 ″ P- 1.3||ErgoStart||Fast||2-stroke|
|MS 251||45.6||2.2 / 3.0||4.9||2.2||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P- 1.3||–||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 271||50.2||2.6 / 3.5||5.6||2.2||37||62-0.325 ″. 1.6||–||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 291||55.5||2.8 / 3.8||5.6||2.0||40||67-0.325 ″. 1.6||–||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 390||64.1||3.4 / 4.6||5.9||1.7||45||66-3 / 8 ″. 1.6||–||Lateral||2-stroke|
|Petrol saws for forestry|
|MS 201||35.2||1.8 / 2.4||4.0||2.2||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P- 1.3||–||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 241 C-M||42.6||2.2 / 3.0||4.7||2.1||40||55-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3||Decompressor||Lateral||2-MIX M-Tronik|
|MS 260||50.2||2.6 / 3.5||4.8||1.8||37||62-0.325 ″. 1.6||Decompressor||Lateral||2-stroke|
|MS 261||50.2||2.8 / 3.8||5.2||1.9||37||62-0.325 ″. 1.6||Decompressor||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 261-VW||50.2||2.8 / 3.8||5.4||1.9||37||62-0.325 ″. 1.6||Decompressor||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 361||59.0||3.4 / 4.6||5.6||1.6||40||60-3 / 8 ″.1.6||Decompressor||Lateral||2-stroke|
|MS 362||59.0||3.4 / 4.6||5.9||1.7||40||60-3 / 8 ″.1.6||Decompressor||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 362-VW||59.0||3.4 / 4.6||6.0||1.8||40||60-3 / 8 ″.1.6||Decompressor||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 440||70.7||4.0 / 5.4||6.3||1.6||fifty||72-3 / 8 ″. 1.6||Decompressor||Lateral||2-stroke|
|MS 440-W||70,7||4.0 / 5.4||6.5||1.6||fifty||72. 3/8 ″. 1.6||Decompressor||Lateral||2-stroke|
|MS 441||70.7||4.2 / 5.7||6.6||1.6||45||66-3 / 8 ″.1.6||Decompressor||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 441 C-M||70.7||4.2 / 5.7||6.6||1.6||45||66-3 / 8 ″.1.6||Decompressor||Lateral||2-MIX M-Tronik|
|MS 660||91.6||5.2 / 7.1||7.3||1.4||fifty||72-3 / 8 ″.1.6||Decompressor||Lateral||2-stroke|
|MS 880||121.6||6.4 / 8.7||9.8||1.5||90||108-0.404 ″.1.6||Decompressor||Lateral||2-stroke|
|MS 150 TC-E||23.6||1.0 / 1.3||2.6||2.6||thirty||64. 1/4 ″ P. 1.1||ErgoStart||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 192 T||30.1||1.3 / 1.8||3.1||2.4||thirty||44-3 / 8 ″ P-1.1||–||Lateral||2-stroke|
|MS 201 T||35.2||1.8 / 2.4||3.7||2.1||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3||–||Lateral||2-MIX|
|MS 192 C-E Carving||30.1||1.3 / 1.8||3.3||2.5||thirty||64- 1/4 ″ P- 1.3||ErgoStart||Lateral||2-stroke|
|MSE 160 C-BQ||1.6||4.1||35||50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3||Fast|
|MSE 180 C-BQ||1.8||4.2||40||55-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3||Fast|
|MSE 220 C-Q||2.2||6.2||45||66. 3/8 ″. 1.6||Lateral|