LouDoo
Premium Member
I think I know what you’re talking about, I believe those trailers are meant for launching from a beach, if you want to put regular road tires on the trailer take one of the tires to a tire dealer, see if you can buy a rim and tire that fits the bolt pattern. I bought a couple of new rims and tires here at SS tire, both were less than 100.00. Cheaper than buying new tires and having them mounted.
LouDoo
Premium Member
You should post questions in the proper forum, which would be the 2-stroke PWC, I’ll see if I can help. The problem with putting your questions in the wrong forum is a lot of guys won’t look twice and you won’t get the help you need.
The starter, unless the starter you have is not OEM you are generally better off rebuilding the starter that you have. You can do it yourself for about 30.00 or take it to a local shop and have it rebuilt. Do not buy a cheap 60.00 Chinese starter off EBay.
I’m not sure what to tell you on the gas gauges. Do you have separate gauges? They are usually part of the multi-function gauge, but in either case try contacting minnetonka4me on this forum, he has lots of good used parts and reasonable prices. I know you said you had water in the gauge, but usually when the fuel gauge quits, shows empty with a red light, its the fuel float, if you need to replace the float get the newer molded type.
Grips, this is just personal preference, but I like the ODI grips, they’re a little larger and I like the feel, plus they “smile” at you when you are riding.
Harbor Freight Tire changer
I needed to change the tires on my truck and I hate going to a shop for anything I’m reasonably certain that I can learn to do myself. To add fuel to the fire I had recently heard from a friend that tire shops around here were charging extra to do LT tires “because they had to use the bigger machine.”
Years ago I tried my hand at changing a tire manually and ended up with a bent rim and a holey tire after probably 45 minutes worth of work. Hoping that this time would be different I went down to my local purveyor of imported trial tools to pick up their manual tire changer apparatus. I had a coupon for some percent off, but they normally run 45 compared to 100 for a similar unit from northern tool.
My thoughts: Goes together like the picture on the box The “spoon” or iron is just awful. The casting is rough, the sides of the mold are offset and jagged, and the finish might be powdercoat, but it’s more likely just 12 layers of paint to hide the imperfections. I immediately blasted both ends clean and used a flap wheel to polish the casting marks out. The smoother the better, and though I failed to do this I recommend waxing the bare metal.
I used 3 50# bags of quick set concrete to pour a mini slab outside the shop. I had to drill the base of the mounter from 7/16 to 1/2 for the j-bolt anchors I picked up for this project. If you go this route, pour a larger slab. While adequate for the most part, the slab tried to lift when removing tires with a lot of leverage.
The bead breaker is flimsy. It needs a strong boot to stay in the bead and not go skating across your rim. I’ll probably shore it up with some 1×1 angle at a later date. It survived this round.
The packaging and description both state that this unit is for “up to 16 inch rims.” I dont know how they came to that conclusion and I couldn’t determine any physical limitations so I went ahead and used it for some 285/70R17s from my 2500HD. Maybe halfway through removing the first tire the post broke along the “weld.” It looked as if the post, which is just 1.5 inch thin wall tubing, was only brazed into the stand. I broke the Hobart out and laid some thick beads down and got back to work.
I foolishly installed the clamp (the ring with 4 tabs that holds the rim steady) upside down for one of the wheels and the thin tubing warped into a square. It no longer works correctly so I’ll be fabbing a replacement soon.
Reinstalling tires: The iron is very likely to scratch your rims. Clean the lip thoroughly and use tire lube. I used Windex. It works well and comes in a spray bottle. Dish soap is a cheap option as well. Spend the money on a bead clamp. I didn’t and it makes this part much more challenging than it needs to be. My wheels are chrome so I wrapped the outer beads in vinyl tape to protect them from the iron.
The tabs on the collar/clamp with seriously mar the hub area on the rims, so I put some shop rags on the stand before mounting the wheel, and some over the wheel before securing the clamps. I was worried about this part but it worked well. I also wrapped the little “leg” that you insert through a lug stud hole with vinyl tape to prevent damage to the wheel.
Results: I have four new tires installed and I’m reasonably certain my rims are still round! The rims are survived free of any nicks in the beads. The tires I was dealing with are E range (10 ply equivalent) and seriously pushed the limits of this simple tool. I expect that it would perform more reasonably for lighter duty passenger car tires. Bottom line is that I’ll spend more time and making the necessary upgrades than if I had just purchased the more expensive model from a more reputable dealer. If you are on the fence with this one, consider your budget vs your skills. If you can cut and weld and perform the necessary modifications, that’s great. If not, consider spending at least double.
How to Replace a Lawn Tractor Tire
Harbor Freight sells tire irons and other tire mounting tools.
The most dangerous part is seating the beads, since force is required from the air pressure. Wear eye protection and protect yourself. Be sure both beads have seated before installing the valve and inflating the new tire.
Lawn tractor tires, golf cart tires, rototiller tires, wheelbarrow tires.- most of these are small, tubeless tires and can be changed pretty easily with some elbow grease and a few simple tools. Heck, I have even changed motorcycle and car tires before with the same method. I assume that you already have your new tires ready to install, so let’s get started.
REMOVE THE WHEEL.- I assume you know how to remove the wheel from the tractor. Simply jack it up, support it with stands, unscrew the lug nuts or remove the axle pin, and remove the wheel.
LET OUT THE AIR.- You can push and hold the valve down until all of the air is out, or you can use a cheap valve stem tool to unscrew and remove the valve. This is preferable because it’s faster and also when you reinflate the new tire, it will inflate quicker and seat the bead easier.- more on that later.
Putting Tubes in tubeless lawn tractor tires
What are slime filled tubes? Are they worth the extra dollors?
Lawn Pro
Absolutely correct. You can get tire bead sealer at an auto supply like NAPA. Make up a solution of dish soap 1 part to 3 or 4 parts of water and brush it around the rims. With the tire under pressure, the bubbles will appear,but not right away. Give it some time and air it up a little strong to 15 or 20 PSI and the leaks will show up. With all the aluminum wheels [just give me steel,please] on autos these days,sealing a tire with bead sealer is a skill worth learning.
I agree with this, but the only thing missing clean the wheel its self where the tire bead goes real good with a steel brush. I use a brush in a hand grinder.
blue06van
I should also state that once this tractor is back up and running. it will be located at my girl friends parents lake house 3.5 hours away and 1 hour from closest town. I need this to be rock solid with the ablity to worked on with limited resources: ie tools and parts. The property is 1.5acres on a hill leading to lake that normally only gets visited once a month, some times more. I dont have a trailer so bringing it back and forth to house to work on is difficult.
wjjones
If you clean the bead area of the wheel off, rust, dirt, etc, and shoot some paint on it will usually do the trick. Have you considered 4 ply tires instead of 2 ply? But as mentioned if you put the slime in there it should seal itself as long as the hole is not to big.
If you clean the bead area of the wheel off, rust, dirt, etc, and shoot some paint on it will usually do the trick. Have you considered 4 ply tires instead of 2 ply? But as mentioned if you put the slime in there it should seal itself as long as the hole is not to big.
I’ve not had any luck with slime. It left little green spots on my floor as it continued to leak, didn’t hardly slow the leak. plies is my thought. It’s what worked for me. But mounting new tires on a mower wheel is not for everyone. Being financially challenged, I had no choice. But there are options. A friend who is an old tire guy wanted me to use latex paint. Said it works better than slime. Then there’s foam filled, they also make a liner, goes between the tire an tube. It was me, I’d look for 6 ply online, unless the thorns are really bad that ought a do it. If you do decide to mount the tires yourself you’re in for a heap o fun. But don’t take my word for it, check you tube. Mounting mower tires. Spoiler alert, it involves either expensive equipment and or fire. You probly wasn’t using them eye brows fer nuthin nohow! Good luck! :drink:
Ralph
Tubes are pretty expensive now-uh-days. I know it has been a few years since I bought an inner tube, but I know they were less than 5 each then. Now they are around 20 a piece. That’s almost half the price of a new tire pre mounted on a new rim. :confused2: Make sure to clean up any sharp areas inside the tire and rim so they can’t poke a hole in your new tube. One of those valve stem tools only costs a couple of bucks and is pretty handy. And be careful not to poke or pinch the tube when you are trying to get the tire back over the rim.
My interest in using a tube in a tubeless tire is saving money and time. I just finished mounting a tubeless Carlisle 20X10-8 for which I paid nearly 70 and which arrived in such a malformed condition that I couldn’t set the bead myself. I had to take it 20 miles into town where the repairman had to use a “bead blaster” to make it happen. Except for a hole in the sidewall of the tire which was too big to patch and which Slime wouldn’t fill, the tread was fine. Call me ignorant, but I didn’t realize that I could use an inner tube on a tubeless tire. We go and grow, right? I see that I can get the right size Slime inner tube for under 20 on Amazon and that’s what I intend to do, next time. I can set the bead with my compressor and have done with it.
Small Lawn Mower Tire Changer
After changing a few lawn mower tires to repair or put in a tube with a hammer and two screw drivers ,it got me to wondering. Do they make a reasonablly priced tire changer for lawnmower tires ? One that can change the back tires as well as the smaller front tires ,on the everyday lawn mower brands that are made for home use. even the smaller ones on the front of the old rear mounted Snapper mowers as well as four wheeler tires or small golf cart tires or small trailer tires ? Wheather it be air. hydrualic or manually ( hand ) powered. I mean one similiar to the ones used for car tires. I’d like to have one to save time as well as back aches. I found this one on Harbor Frieght. It has good reviews. but you know what they say about Harbor Frieght stuff. Seems that I remember reading a few bad reviews about it a few months ago. though. Anyone ever bought or used this brand or any other brand ? Do you know of any good ones ? Thanks for any and all help.
| We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor. the right parts. Our low and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ] |
Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday’s Tractor Co. All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday’s Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday’s Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday’s Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday’s Tractors. Antique Tractor Headquarters
How we picked
For this guide, we first researched the category by reviewing existing articles about tire inflators and portable air compressors, and then we compared the specs and features of about 100 models. When choosing which models to test for our latest update, we focused mainly on those that plug into a car’s 12-volt outlet (aka cigarette lighter) as well as some cordless models, because they will be the handiest for most drivers. Previously, we’d also tested some heavier-duty models that connect directly to a car’s battery terminals; they’re often stronger, but also larger and pricier, and many people aren’t comfortable getting under the hood to connect directly to the battery.
All tire inflators work essentially the same way: You connect the unit’s air-pressure hose to a tire’s valve stem, turn on the inflator, wait until the unit’s gauge shows the correct pressure, and then turn it off and disconnect the hose. Very straightforward. Depending on the model, power can come from a car’s 12-volt DC battery, a household 110-volt AC wall socket, or an internal or connected battery (lithium-ion or lead-acid); some models give you a choice of power sources.
We focused mainly on 12-volt and cordless models, because they will be the handiest for most drivers.
By the way, to find the recommended tire pressure for your vehicle, check your car’s owner’s manual. The right pressure is usually shown on a sticker located inside the driver’s door jamb or inside the fuel-filler flap. Don’t go by the “psi” figure imprinted on the tire’s sidewall; that’s the maximum inflation pressure, not what the automaker recommends.
To narrow down the field to the most promising tire inflators for testing, here’s what we looked for.
The most important considerations
Power source: Tire inflators vary mainly by how they’re powered.
- 12-volt DC: This type is the most common. They plug into a car’s 12 V power port or are connected directly to a vehicle’s battery, making them easy to use on the road. But they can be inconvenient if you want to inflate something away from your vehicle.
- Cordless: The best cordless models can also be the quickest and easiest to use, because they let you operate the inflator anywhere, without having to plug in a cord. For power, they use an integrated or add-on lithium-ion or lead-acid battery. You do have to keep the battery charged, though.
- 110-volt AC: A few models are designed to be plugged into a household electrical outlet, although most of those units also offer alternatives, as described below.
- Multi-powered: The most versatile inflators let you choose from two or three power sources, including a battery for cordless operation, a car’s 12 V power port, or a household AC outlet. But these tend to be more expensive than other types.
Among dial gauges, those that are divided into 2-psi increments are the easiest read. Photo: Rik Paul
The gauges on some models, such as the 300-psi version on the AAA Air Compressor, have cramped scales that are hard to read. They can also be misleading because the compressor can’t actually inflate to that pressure. Photo: Rik Paul
Easy-to-read gauge: We’ve found digital gauges to be the easiest to read; the larger, the better. Among the wide range of analog gauges, the easiest are those that are divided into 2-psi markings. Some units have markings in only 5- or 10-psi increments, so stopping the inflator at, say, 32 psi—a common tire-inflation pressure—takes some guesswork. An illuminated gauge is also a big help in low light.
Easy-to-use design: We like inflators that are thoughtfully laid out, with a handle, a handy work light, and roomy storage cubbies for the hose, power cord, and extra needles and nozzles. The cramped storage compartments on some inflators make it hard to pack everything in, which usually results in the cord dangling behind. A carrying case also makes it easier to stow the unit in a vehicle.
Convenient pressure-hose chuck: Every inflator comes with either a screw-on or push-on chuck for connecting the air-pressure hose to a tire’s valve stem. Push-on connectors are usually quicker to get on and off, but some can be annoyingly tight, requiring extra effort and resulting in more air loss. Screw-on connectors can take slightly more time than a good push-on chuck, but they tend to be straightforward and secure. Among screw-on chucks, brass ones are usually easier to grip than those covered with rubber or plastic.
and ratings: Although we always check a model’s and ratings, they’re definitely not something to solely rely on. A lot of tire inflators with high ratings on Amazon, for example, get low grades—such as a D or an F—on Fakespot, which indicates that the ratings aren’t reliable. (This grade doesn’t reflect on the product, though; even great products can have questionable ratings.) Still, are good for learning about common problems.
How we tested
To test each tire inflator for our latest update, we first lowered the air pressure in a 195/65R15 passenger-car tire from its recommended 41 psi to 30 psi in order to simulate the pressure at which the car’s tire-pressure warning light would illuminate in the dash. This is a common scenario. Then we used the inflator to top it up again, while evaluating the elements listed below.
Gauge accuracy: We measured the accuracy of each inflator’s gauge by comparing its readout with that of a handheld digital tire-pressure gauge that we’d checked against a local tire shop’s master gauge. Most inflators didn’t match exactly, but we consider one to be good if it’s within 1 psi of our handheld gauge. Most were within 2 psi, although some were off by much more. We also found that the gauge on some units gave us different readings depending on whether the air compressor was running or stopped.
Inflation speed: We timed how long each unit took to inflate our test tire from its low pressure of 30 psi to its recommended pressure of 41 psi. Most did it in less than two minutes, with a couple requiring three minutes or more. That’s not long to wait for one tire. But if you’ve got more than one tire to fill, or you have to fill a fully flat tire, quicker inflation times are definitely welcome. For the cordless models, we repeated the inflation test four times—to simulate filling four tires—to see whether performance dropped as the battery became depleted.
Pressure-hose and power-cord length: We didn’t have any trouble reaching all four tires on our vehicles with any of the inflators we tested. In our latest tests, hose length varied from only 7 inches to a lengthy 44 inches. The shortest can be a problem when a tire’s valve stem is positioned at the top of the tire, because it forces you to hold the inflator or let it dangle by its hose.
Noise level: When you’re kneeling over an inflator to keep an eye on the gauge, a noisy compressor can get annoying; at worst, it can adversely affect your hearing. We measured the sound level of each unit during operation from a distance of 2 feet (where your head might be when you’re looking at the gauge). The quietest models measured in the mid-60 dB range, or about the same level as an air conditioner or vacuum cleaner. All of the others were much louder, ranging from 76 to 85 decibels. (Because the decibel scale is logarithmic, 85 dB is four times as loud as 65 dB and about the same level as an idling bulldozer or a diesel truck driving past at 50 feet away.)
The best tire inflator for most drivers
This portable air compressor is quick, accurate, and well built. And it’s one of the quietest inflators we’ve tested.
Buying Options
At the time of publishing, the price was 40.
In our testing, the Viair 77P stood out as the best choice for most people, thanks to its combination of fast performance, solid construction, handy features, and good value. It was one of the quickest at inflating tires. Its illuminated analog gauge is very easy to read and more accurate than most. It was one of the quietest models we tested. It has a high-quality, mostly metal construction (many portable compressors have all-plastic cases). And its durability is reflected in the fact that it can operate for up to 30 minutes at a time; most models are limited to 10 to 15 minutes before needing to be cooled down. Its compact dimensions and handy case also make it easy to stow in a vehicle.
Like most inflators, the Viair 77P plugs into a car’s 12 V outlet for power (Viair recommends that the vehicle be running to avoid draining its battery). With this model’s extra-long, 44-inch air-pressure hose and 16-foot power cord—both among the longest in our test group—we could easily reach all four tires on our test vehicles, even on a large SUV. Its high-quality brass screw-on hose chuck can be attached to and removed from a tire’s air valve quickly and easily, and it provides a good grip for your fingers. The screw-on chucks on many other inflators have a rubber or plastic covering that can make them hard to grip, especially if they’re wet.
In our latest tests, the 77P inflated our test tire from 30 psi to 41 psi in only a minute and 13 seconds, which was one of the quickest times we recorded. In a previous test, it took a little less than 3 minutes to inflate a completely flat tire to 32 psi. During long-term testing of the 77P over the past three years, it has consistently performed well, and we’ve appreciated its quick performance, especially when a slow leak is crying for attention during a busy commute. Viair says that the 77P is designed to inflate tires up to size 225/60R18 (18 inches in diameter), but that’s conservative: We used it on 20-inch SUV tires with no problem (although it took a little longer than the Viair 84P, our also-great pick for larger tires).
The 77P comes with a handy carrying case, but we’ve found that it’s a tight fit to get everything in, and over time the zipper on our 77P’s case has separated because of the strain.
Like most 12 V powered tire inflators we’ve tested, the 77P requires a maximum of 15 amps of electricity to operate. Although that’s not a problem for the 12 V outlets in most modern cars, some older vehicles have outlets rated at only 10 amps; using this inflator could cause a fuse to blow on that circuit. If your car is in this category, we recommend you opt for the Viair 75P, which draws a maximum of only 10 amps and is discussed in the Competition section.
Though the 77P is one of the quickest models we’ve tested, it has a maximum pressure of 80 psi. If you’ll be using the unit mainly to inflate car tires, that’s not a problem, but it won’t be able to inflate the high-pressure tires of some RVs, trucks, or bicycles that require higher psi. See the Competition for a couple models that can handle pressures of 120 psi or even more.
If you want a push-on chuck
Buying Options
At the time of publishing, the price was 40.
The Viair 78P is virtually the same as the 77P, except for how it connects to a tire’s valve stem. The 78P comes with a push-on chuck instead of the 77P’s screw-on connector. In general, we’ve found push-on connectors to be slightly quicker to get on and off of a valve stem, with a little less pressure loss when disconnecting. But we named the 78P our runner-up pick (instead of top pick) because its connector is relatively tight and more difficult to push on and pull off than others we’ve used. Over a year and a half of long-term testing, we haven’t found this to be a dealbreaker, but the chuck has drawn complaints from a number of Amazon users, even in otherwise positive reviews. The bottom line: If you strongly prefer one type of chuck over the other, get the appropriate Viair model for you.
In our latest testing, the 78P performed very similarly to the 77P. It turned in one of the quickest inflation times of the group, and was even a few seconds faster than the 77P. It had an equally low noise level. And its pressure hose, power cord, construction, and carry case are all exactly the same.
Besides the hose chuck, the 78P also has a slightly different analog gauge, but, like the 77P’s, it’s illuminated and very easy to read. The 78P’s gauge is most accurate when the unit is stopped, and reads about 2 psi higher when running.
Versatile and easy to use
With separate high-pressure and high-volume hoses, the ability to operate from three power sources, handy features, and easier-to-use controls, the DeWALT is the best overall inflator we’ve tested.
Buying Options
If you intend to use an inflator for more than just keeping your tires topped up, then you may find that the versatility of the DeWALT 20V Max Inflator fits your needs better than the Viair models. Overall, it’s the best inflator we’ve tested, but it’s also one of the most expensive. In addition to the usual high-pressure air hose, for filling tires and sports balls, the DeWALT also provides a high-volume hose for quickly filling or deflating pool floats, inflatable beds, lawn decorations, and the like. It is one of the few inflators that can be powered cordlessly, via an attached 20 V lithium-ion battery, or through a car’s 12 V port or a household electrical outlet. We love the ease of cordless operation, but if you don’t already have a DeWALT 20V Max battery and charger, you’ll have to add that onto the cost of the inflator. Still, if you don’t go for the battery or you slack off on keeping it charged, it’s reassuring to know that you’ve still got two other power options, whether you’re on the road or at home. (That said, to use the DeWALT with an AC outlet, you’ll need an optional power adapter.)
When we powered the DeWALT with its 20 V battery, it achieved some of the quickest inflation times of our test group—about 1½ minutes—just behind the Viair models. It had no problem topping up four tires in a row, with no notable loss of power. The smaller batteries in a couple of cheaper cordless models we tested drained enough in that span to add about 45 seconds to the last tire’s inflation time.
The DeWALT inflator has two large digital gauges: one for the psi readout (left) and one that shows the auto-shutoff pressure (right). These and its large buttons make it easier to use than any other model we’ve tested. Photo: Rik Paul
Instead of having to punch in numbers to set the auto-shutoff pressure, on the DeWALT you simply spin a dial control. It’s easy and quick. Photo: Rik Paul
The DeWALT inflator has two large digital gauges: one for the psi readout (left) and one that shows the auto-shutoff pressure (right). These and its large buttons make it easier to use than any other model we’ve tested. Photo: Rik Paul
The DeWALT has two large digital displays: one for the psi readout and a separate one for setting the auto shutoff pressure. The DeWALT also has one of the most accurate gauges. When the tire was set to 30 psi, the unit’s psi readout was 30.5; close enough. And at 41 psi, it was spot-on. It also has the only digital gauge that showed tenths of a psi; all other digitals counted by 0.5-psi increments.
Adding to the DeWALT’s ease of use is its method for setting the auto shutoff pressure, which was the simplest we’ve seen. Most models make you punch in the figure on small buttons, which can be confusing, but on the DeWALT you simply spin a circular dial with your finger. It takes only seconds and is much more intuitive.
The DeWALT has a solid, high-quality plastic housing—with a rubberized handle and large buttons—that can be placed vertically or horizontally during operation. An LED work light is located on the side of the handle, facing the high-pressure hose. When you store the unit, the 29-inch air hose easily wraps into clips on the side. The 12V power cord is stored in a compartment on the other side, but it’s a tight fit.
This DeWALT is one of the larger models we’ve tested, so it’s less convenient to stow in a vehicle than our other picks are. It’s also one of the heaviest, weighing in at 5.6 pounds without a battery and 6.8 with one; most other models weighed less than 5 pounds. The DeWALT was also one of the noisier inflators we tested.