How to bore a cylinder block yourself
Economical car enthusiasts or those who are used to performing all repair manipulations with their own hands think about boring a cylinder block independently. Most drivers immediately have a question: How appropriate is it to carry out such a procedure, which in no way can be called easy, in the conditions of a garage box? After all, to perform grinding block, without special equipment and certain skills is quite problematic. In addition, it is impossible to be fully confident in the accuracy of this procedure, but still many car owners take up boring of the cylinder block at home.
Note that experienced motorists do not approve of such a procedure. Although it can be used as a last resort to restore the performance of motorcycle or moped engines. Boring of the cylinder block of an automobile power unit is possible in several ways, each of which requires certain efforts and costs. However, it is better to perform this procedure on a special boring machine, because then the risk of damaging the block is minimized. A perfect boring of the cylinder can be obtained on the machine (if done by a professional), but such results are unlikely to be achieved by hand.
Why it is needed?
The very concept of “block boring” involves the process of restoring the geometry of the cylinders of the power unit with special machines. The main reason for the block boring is to perform an engine overhaul, but now the procedure is mainly performed to increase the engine output.
Boring of the cylinders during overhaul is necessary because the pistons in the cylinder under the influence of high temperature, pressure and other constant loads cause the geometric shape of the cylinder to be disturbed. Simply speaking, the constant friction and high loads cause the cylinder to become elliptical instead of perfectly round. Because of this, the piston is no longer able to adjoin completely to its walls, resulting in a significant gap through which exhaust gases or fuel penetrate into the crankcase and engine oil into the combustion chamber.
Naturally, because of all that, a power unit loses a lot of its power, fuel and oil consumption increases. One of the true signs of the need to bore an engine is increased engine oil consumption. And you should also pay attention to the color of exhaust gases. If a bluish, blueish smoke begins to appear from the exhaust pipe, the overhaul of the power unit is not far off.
Just a few decades ago it was impossible to find good quality engine oil or coolant, and the engines often overheated as a result. It was even up to the point when overhaul of a new car engine had to be performed after 30-50 thousand km. km of mileage. And units on trucks and special vehicles had to be repaired much more often.
The situation has changed radically today. Modern lubricants and coolants can significantly extend the life of an automobile engine. Nowadays, the average mileage before a major overhaul is about 200-250 thousand. But, not every motorist drives even 12-15 thousand kilometers per year. km. It turns out that this service life of a power unit should be sufficient for more than 15 years of operation. Not every vehicle can withstand this long service life.
Boring of the block is very seldom used recently as a necessary repair measure. Basically, this procedure is used in tuning to increase the volume and power of the engine. But, in the second case, the boring is conducted only when the condition of the cylinder walls allows it. In that case, larger diameter pistons need to be installed. Also for the correct operation of the power unit will require a larger amount of fuel mixture, because its volume will increase, respectively, the power will increase.
Why it is needed?
The very concept of “block boring” involves the process of restoring the geometry of the cylinders of the power unit with special machines. The main prerequisite for the block boring is an engine overhaul, but nowadays the procedure is mainly carried out to increase the engine’s power output.
Boring of cylinders during overhaul is necessary, because the pistons in them under the influence of high temperature, pressure and other constant loads, cause violation of the geometric shape of the cylinder. Simply speaking, due to constant friction and high loads, the cylinder becomes elliptical instead of perfectly round. Because of this, the piston can no longer completely adhere to its walls, resulting in a significant gap, through which the exhaust gases or fuel enter the crankcase and the engine oil enters the combustion chamber.
Naturally, because of all this the power unit significantly loses power, fuel and oil consumption increases. One of the true signs, indicating the necessity of engine boring, is the increased consumption of engine oil. Besides, one should pay attention to the color of exhaust gases. If blueish smoke begins to appear from the exhaust pipe, major overhaul of the power unit is just around the corner.
Just a few decades ago it was impossible to find good quality engine oil or coolant, and the result was frequent overheating of engines. It even came to the point when overhaul of a new car engine had to be performed after 30-50 thou. km over the mileage. And units of trucks and special equipment had to be repaired much more often.
Today the situation has changed radically. Modern lubricants and coolants allow to increase significantly the service life of an automobile engine. Nowadays, the average mileage before a major overhaul is about 200-250 thousand. km, and not every motorist drives even 12-15 thousand km per year, or about 10-15 thousand km per year. km. It turns out that this resource of the power unit should be sufficient for more than 15 years of operation. Not every vehicle can withstand this much work.
The block boring is very seldom used lately as a necessary repair measure. Basically this procedure is used in tuning to increase the volume and power of the engine. But, in the second case, the boring is performed only when the condition of the cylinder walls allows it. In this case it is necessary to install pistons with a larger diameter. Also, to ensure the correct operation of the power unit, a larger amount of fuel mixture will be required, since its volume will increase, respectively, the power will increase.
Instructions for boring the cylinder block
At home it is problematic to do the boring on a classic or other car with an 8 or 16 valve engine. It is a time-consuming process, since it requires a high level of precision.
To bore the cylinder block with your own hands, you will need:
- Boring machine. Not every service station can afford such equipment, respectively, buy it for their own needs is impractical from a financial point of view. You can rent a machine.
- Sandpaper. Various densities of sandpaper will be needed, from fine to coarse.
- Locksmith tools. set of screwdrivers, wrenches, etc. д.
- Pipe. The hose size must be smaller than the bored hole.
Boring can not be performed on the machine, so the power unit must be dismantled.
The cylinder block boring procedure consists of several steps:
- Drain consumables from the power unit. Under the bottom of the machine must find the drain plug, it is substituted by an old container, in which the working fluid will be drained. Unscrew the plug of the engine oil drain, and you have to wait at least 30 minutes for the substance to fully come out. Perform a similar procedure to drain the coolant from the engine cooling system.
- After draining liquids you disassemble the power unit. The user must remove the spark plugs, disconnect all wires and connections from the motor. Disconnect contacts from the sensors, remove motor mounts, if necessary supports are put under the motor. The procedure is voluminous, it takes time. After disassembly of the main assemblies the unit is dismantled.
- The next step is to install the cylinder head on the base of the machine that will be used for boring. The correct leveling gives the best result, so the head should be optimally fixed.
- If the repair procedure is performed due to ovalization of the channels, all measurements are taken before the task is performed through the use of micrometer devices. This is done to determine the degree of wear. After the measurements you can understand on which side and how many mm of steel you need to remove.
- Then begins the repair work on the boring. Perform them correctly by yourself is impossible, in particular if the procedure is performed by the car owner for the first time. The master must have the qualifications. In case the machine is not able to maintain the required size, it will be difficult to achieve an optimal result. This may generally affect the performance of the cylinder head of the engine.
- If the boring procedure is performed, then the honing of the inner surfaces of the cylinders is performed.
- The next step is to check the actions performed. Measurements are taken with measuring instruments, the diameter of the holes must be identical. Assembly of the power unit is performed in the reverse order, the engine is installed on the car. The engine is filled with consumables.
Performance of boring on a special machine Processing of working surfaces with fine abrasive Removal of scoring and defects from the surface of the cylinder head It is necessary to tell separately about the peculiarities of honing of the cylinder head:
- The procedure is carried out in two stages. The first uses a tool for grinding working surfaces, which has a coarse abrasive. This step is a roughing of the surface, which removes the defective layer of metal. The cylindrical sleeves are smoothed out and their shape is optimally shaped, so that the coarse roughness is removed. Diamond honing stones, made with a copper base, are used for the task.
- The roughing honing procedure is performed with the surfaces treated with lubricants and coolants. This is done in order to completely remove from the surface where the honing is applied residual abrasive, as well as mechanical particles.
- Finishing polishing is then performed, which requires a fine abrasive. It enables the task to be carried out with greater accuracy. To ensure that the smoothness of the cylinder liners is high, you can additionally treat the surface with abrasive paste.
- The next step is to do more quartzing. This procedure is not intended for boring, it is performed in order to clean the surface from traces of abrasives and its residues. If the cylinder head is made of cast iron, quartzing will ensure that the graphite grains can be opened. In the case of cast-iron units, it makes it possible to remove friction and reduce mechanical losses, as well as to prevent rapid deterioration of the internal combustion engine. Quartzing is performed using special brushes, which are based on nylon filaments and crystals.
- When the last honing stage is complete, the power unit is rinsed of metal swarf and dust residues.
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Grinding the head
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The procedure is performed in several steps:
- With the help of a ruler and a dipstick and ruler diagnose the degree of irregularity. The ruler itself is placed on the edge of the cylinder head surface, and then the necessary feeler gauge is passed to measure the unevenness and clearance. These actions will determine the defect and the desired degree of grinding. The greatest amount of surface distortion will be at the point where the cylinder-head gasket burns through.
- Then it is necessary to determine the possible cracks on the surface. The surface of the head is treated with a layer of slowly drying paint, which is removed after a certain time. This identifies any defects and, if none are found, it is polished. However, you can only identify cracks from above. To diagnose defects inside the block itself, you will need a specialized device with which to heat the cylinder head. If the head is defective, then bubbles will appear on its surface, it is due to the presence of pressure.
- The device is dismantled from the engine. To grind you need a cutting disk or a sharpening stone. When performing the task, the valves should be wiped and their glands should be replaced (this is recommended to be done immediately). Wiping will increase the power of the power unit. It is not necessary to install new valves if the condition of the old elements is assessed as high.
- Remove remains of the cylinder-head gasket and clean the surface of the cylinder-head head with a paper knife or a regular knife.
- The disc is installed on the cylinder head, it is carried out several times on the surface. It is possible to use a sharpening stone, but this procedure takes longer. It is essential to know the maximum possible depth when grinding, otherwise the compression ratio may increase and the centre-to-centre distance may change. During the grinding movements on the cylinder-head surface will be smooth, preferably in the form of zero or figure of eight. Surface treatment is performed until all irregularities are removed from it.
- In the end, the car owner should achieve the most mirror-like surface of the cylinder head, which will provide an optimal seal. The cylinder head is refitted after the grinding process.
When the cylinder head needs grinding
If the cylinder head does not fit snugly on the cylinder block, this can lead to engine performance problems. Problems can occur:
- Reduced engine power;
- Leakage of technical fluids. oil, antifreeze;
- Difficulties with starting the engine;
- Engine overheating.
These are fairly typical problems that indicate many engine faults, one of which may be a bad fit cylinder head and the need for grinding.
The most frequent damage of the cylinder head is accompanied by damage of the gasket. If the gasket burns through, there will be a blow-out of gases from the combustion chamber.
But not only in case of problems in the engine operation cylinder head grinding is shown. Also necessarily perform such work during any complex work on the engine components related to the cylinder head. For example, the cylinder-head cylinder head grinding is performed when replacing the camshaft, the gasket, eliminating the defect of the cylinder liners and so on. That is, always when the cylinder head cylinder head is removed, it is better to grind it before installing it back, thereby maximizing the fitting plane of the cylinder head and cylinder block.
Also the cylinder head grinding can be performed in order to increase the engine power, when it comes to fine tuning of the engine. Reducing the height of the cylinder head allows the compression ratio to be increased.
Defects of the cylinder-head gasket
No manufacturer can give a one hundred percent guarantee of a long service life, since the formation of defects is influenced by many factors. engine condition, vehicle model, driving style. Among the main defects are piercing and burnout of the element in question. Why the cylinder-head gasket is punctured, and what reasons can cause burnout?
Puncture of the cylinder-head gasket and its causes
A burst gasket almost all drivers do not notice until a serious breakdown makes itself known. Components of domestic cars are more subject to breakdown, since traditionally their quality is much lower than that of the imported cars.
The need for repair may be indicated by the presence of steam under the hood and noise during engine operation, which previously was not. These signs of a punctured cylinder-head gasket indicate an external breakdown.
Internal breakdown is much more dangerous because of its invisibility. Detect the problem by measuring compression in the cylinders, and such diagnostics are often performed by drivers when the engine is tripping.
Air bubbles in the radiator fluid and the presence of white steam in the exhaust pipe are also indicative of the problem. There may be oil leaking at joints in the motor.
As for the causes, driver negligence is one of the most common. Let’s consider them in more detail:
- Engine overheating will immediately manifest itself if the gasket is asbestos-type with the addition of metal. It does not withstand high temperatures and blows up the first time it overheats. Leakage occurs after several heating/cooling cycles, as strength is reduced at the point of bloat.
- Deformation of the head plane, which adjoins the block. This is a common problem with aluminum heads. The cast-iron gaskets immediately give a crack. Replacement in this case is not necessary, the repair will consist of grinding with a high-precision machine.
- Improper tightening of mounting bolts or uneven tightening leads to a loss of clamping force. This is where the piercing occurs.
- The quality of the gasket itself also plays an important role. The use of non-original gasket is not the way to save money, but the reason for its replacement after several thousand kilometers of mileage.
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The cylinder-head gasket burnout and its causes
As for the blowhole, the problem area is the area between the water jacket and one of the cylinders. The burnout is getting worse and is spreading further. Other possibilities include the area between the cooling duct and the oil duct. If it is a new engine, overheating is the only reason for the blow-by, even if it is only minor. A driver without experience will not pay attention to the first symptoms of failure, and only the aggravation of signs will force to pay attention to the problem.
Since the car will be sent to the service station not immediately after the cylinder-head gasket blowout, but after further operation, the blowout is not associated with recent overheating and the search for causes continues in the wrong direction. Minor overheating of the cylinder head can occur if the coolant is insufficiently filled.
Circulation in the system allows the fluid to cool, but the heat is not removed to the necessary extent. The temperature of the fluid is displayed by the devices of the car, and at first sight all is normal, however the temperature of parts is not displayed. Consequently, the driver will not even notice that the gasket is burned out due to overheating.
The remaining causes relate to omissions after the repair work:
- Improper gasket thickness selection;
- Violation of the bolt tightening sequence;
- Excessive or too little tension when tightening;
- bad condition of the fitting surfaces (scratches or cavities, remains of the old gasket, deformation of the head).
Signs of cylinder-head gasket defects
Since we are talking about the two main defects of the cylinder-head gasket, the signs of their manifestation should also be considered separately. If the cylinder-head gasket is punctured, the signs will be as follows:
- Engine oil mixes with antifreeze and fuel gets into the coolant. Oily spots in the expansion tank of the cooling system can be an alarming signal.
- If the combustion chamber trim is punctured, engine temperature rises. Then burning gases enter the cooling system, the antifreeze heats up, there is active gassing.
- The presence of antifreeze or moisture in the combustion chamber may be indicated by white smoke in the muffler. It is normal for there to be a tear between the combustion chamber and the cooling jacket bore.
- If the outer sheath is torn, oil leaks at the junction of the cylinder head and cylinder block.
- Starting the engine may be problematic because the exhaust gases from one cylinder are mixed with the fuel mixture of the other cylinder. After warming up, the stability of the motor does not cause any complaints.
The following changes in the operation of the machine are indicative of a burnout:
- Droplets of water or water-oil emulsion appear on the dipstick, therefore, the blowhole is located between the cooling bed and the oil duct. When oil and coolant mix, a kind of emulsion forms, which cannot be ignored when the oil dipstick is pulled out. If not enough fluid is present, unstable emulsion can cause delamination after shutdown. If you unscrew the crankcase pan plug slightly, you will first see water, and then oil will seep out. There will be condensation on the dipstick and internal parts of the motor, formed as a result of evaporation of some of the fluid. If condensate droplets form regularly, there is no doubt of a blowout. Also the problem will be indicated by an oily film in the expansion tank on the surface of the coolant.
- Unstable engine temperatures are related to the temperature of the coolant. If a small amount of gas enters the cooling system, the gases may escape through the valve to the outside, but the coolant will not be knocked out. Only part of the gases will accumulate in front of the thermostat, but the heat transfer of the coolant will be partially blocked. As a result, the thermostat is activated too late and the engine overheats. The temperature drops sharply when the thermostat is triggered, and it starts all over again. If such temperature jumps are not accompanied by bubbles in the expansion tank, the problem may be in the thermostat and not in the gasket.
- If there is cold air coming from the heater, the problem is easy to detect, but it does not occur in all cars. In some cases, the vented gases may escape through the expansion tank plug valve. In other cases, they create an air lock that blocks the heating of the air coming out of the heater. The problem can be detected in the cold season if the heater is actively used.
- If the coolant is knocked out, but there is no sign of its leakage, the integrity of the gasket is obviously violated, and the blowout is localized between the coolant channel and the combustion chamber. Do not open the expansion tank cap with the engine running. It is necessary to turn off the engine and wait for the pressure in the system to decrease, otherwise the escaping coolant can provoke severe burns.
Grinding of cylinder-head cylinder head. particularities of performance
Before you start grinding the cylinder-head cylinder head, defektovka is performed in order to measure the degree of deformation, this allows you to understand how much to grind and where. Using a ruler, you measure the entire head in different planes (crosswise, lengthwise, along the holes in the mountings, etc.). д.). If the head was already ground, and there was quite a lot removed from its surface, it is not recommended to grind such a head, it is better to replace it completely.
After the preparation and all the changes, the head is placed on the grinding table, firmly fixed and machined with the cutter. Excess metal is cut off from the surface in several passes, and measurements are taken in between.
What you need to know about replacing the cylinder head gasket
Here you see before you a pile of iron, which is assembled into a very necessary and convenient for you mechanism. your car. Watch and think about the fact that people have created such a machine, but suddenly it may happen that because of some small detail the machine stops driving. The information about when the replacement of the cylinder-head gasket will be needed will not be superfluous for any car owner. Even if you do not repair your car, you need to know what can result, if you do not replace the cylinder-head gasket in time.
What do you need a cylinder-head gasket for?
This part is used to seal the place where the cylinder block and the cylinder head connect. Do not compare such concepts as a cylinder head gasket and cylinder head gasket, which is made of rubber. Let these concepts are almost the same, but there are differences.The cylinder-head gasket does three things at once – It is used to seal the engine cooling system (passages), the engine oil system (passages), and the timing system of the engine (cylinder cavities).
That is why the requirements for this part are high. You should not forget and try to save some money to repair the cylinder head or cylinder block. The gasket is a part that is used only once, and in any engine repair, its replacement with a new one is mandatory.
Non-asbestos gaskets. these gaskets have low shrinkage and high regenerability of material.
Asbestos. this type of gaskets is similar to asbestos-free gaskets in characteristics: elasticity, heat resistance and elasticity. This type of gasket is most often used as a repair kit.
Metal. this type of gasket is considered the most qualitative and effective. This type of gasket has a more even distribution of surface pressure at the cylinder-head-head junction that is evenly distributed throughout the cylinder-head and head end face.
When the cylinder-head gasket needs to be replaced
The replacement of this part may be needed at any time, and how long it will last is not known. There are some signs of cylinder-head gasket failure, which we will list below:
The joint between the cylinder-head and head end may have oil or coolant leakage.
When checking the oil on the dipstick, a whitish colored liquid is noticeable. this may be due to coolant getting in through a failed gasket.
If white smoke is emitted from the exhaust pipe all the time, not counting the warming up of the car, then, most likely, the coolant got into the cylinder.
If during the inspection of the expansion tank or on the surface of the liquid in the radiator there are oil spots, then most likely the engine oil gets into the cooling system due to a bad gasket.
And the last sign of a faulty gasket is the ingress of exhaust gases into the cooling system, as evidenced by bubbles in the radiator or in the expansion tank. All these signs of a faulty gasket are not an exact confirmation. Still, you can’t ignore them, as you’ll need to replace this part soon anyway. No matter how we avoid this moment.
Sequence of operation when replacing the cylinder-head gasket
On almost all makes of cars the work of replacing the cylinder-head gasket is the same. But there are some peculiarities, such as the order of tightening bolts fixing the cylinder head and the setting of tightening torque of these bolts. These numbers are indicated in the owner’s manual of your vehicle. If you do not have a manual you can use the internet to find these data. It is extremely important to clean the bolts fixing the cylinder head before unscrewing them in order to prevent the keys from tearing off, to prevent the bolt slot defect and the inability to unscrew it.
To unscrew the mounting bolts start in the middle or first turn all the bolts evenly by 0,5-1 turn.
Before starting the work you need to detach all attachments. And the disassembly procedure itself is best marked or labeled schematically. After unscrewing the bolts you need to remove the cylinder head and replace the cylinder-head gasket. To center the gasket itself and the block head, there are usually bushings on the block itself. After that, assemble the cylinder head and all superstructure parts in the reverse order. Especially for this moment you sketched a diagram. Tighten the cylinder-head bolts in strict accordance with the drawing for this unit and observe all the tightening torque parameters specified by the manufacturer. To do this, you need to use a torque wrench.
Main points when replacing the cylinder-head gasket
Regardless of, what kind of features, associated with this or that engine, the type of gaskets and bolts fastening, there are rules and regulations which should be adhered to. Rules for the replacement of the cylinder-head gasket, regardless of the make of the vehicle. We will not bore you with the details, what bolt and how to torque. All the intricacies of cylinder-head gasket replacement are listed in the manual for your type of engine. It is worth to read them before you start the repair. It is very important to try to meet all the described requirements of the manufacturer, which relate to the assembly and disassembly of the cylinder-head.
When you disassemble the cylinder-head gasket you must hold a marker in your hand. When disconnecting all attachments, particularly piping, do not be lazy and rely on your memory, you need to mark everything. To assemble then will be much easier.
When buying this part for replacement, you must make sure that it is suitable for exactly the amount of torque written by the manufacturer of the engine to tighten the bolts fastening the cylinder head.
Before you unscrew the bolts, they need to be cleaned of debris very well. If you stumble with a spanner, you could injure yourself or tear off a slot in the bolt and then have to drill out
Loosen the fastening bolts by 0.5-1 turns from the middle. This is to relieve tension.
After you have done all the necessary work regarding the replacement of the cylinder-head gasket, you can begin to put everything back together. Everything needs to be done with care and precision.
Bolts tightening the cylinder head should be done only with a torque wrench and follow all the rules and parameters.
Cylinder head grinding: why, when and for whom it is necessary?
The cylinder head (cylinder head) needs periodic machining. As a rule it is the grinding of the cylinder head, which is done almost every time the complete cylinder head dismantling is performed. Grinding removes any irregularities from the cylinder head surface that would prevent the cylinder head from properly adhering to the cylinder block.
Any irregularity or distortion could negate any effort and result in burnout of the gasket and any penetration of exhaust inside or outside the unit. The cylinder-head surface must be perfect for a perfect fit.
The distortion is generally caused by overheating or improper tightening of the cylinder head. The maximum permissible deformation is 0.05 mm, at which the cylinder head is not to be resurfaced. к. this distortion is not uncommon even on newer vehicles. this eliminates the need for resharpening the cylinder head and cylinder head. The cylinder head is mounted on a level surface, and then a gauge is moved to the surface of the cylinder head to keep it as close to the cylinder head surface as possible. If there is a gap between the mold and the surface, a feeler gauge is inserted to measure the degree of distortion, after which a grinding verdict is pronounced.
When cylinder head resurfacing is necessary?
Before you start grinding the cylinder head, a defect inspection is performed to measure the degree of deformation, this allows you to understand how much to grind and where. Using a ruler, the entire cylinder head is measured in different planes (crosswise to cross, lengthwise, along the holes in the mountings, etc.). д.). If the head has already been sanded, and quite a lot has been removed from its surface, such a head is not recommended to be sanded, it is better to replace it completely.
After all the preparation and modifications the head is placed on the grinding table, firmly clamped and machined with the cutter. Surplus metal is cut off from the surface in several passes, and measurements are made in between.
You can see more clearly what cylinder head grinding is like in this
After the cylinder head has been ground, it can last for many years, provided the engine is operated properly.
When you need grinding the cylinder head
Geometry is broken. During the operation local overheats in the cylinder head quite often occur and may not affect the engine operation, as the cylinder head is bolted to the block firmly. But there are stresses in it that lead to deformation as soon as you remove the cylinder head from the engine, because the structural strength is violated and deformation of the cylinder head plane occurs.
After welding. When repairing cracks in the cylinder head corrosion welding is used, which locally heats the head, causing it to deform. There are also welding seams on the surface that need to be removed by grinding.
Tuning. When tuning an engine, the cylinder head is undercut, and a couple of millimeters of the cylinder head should be filed off using a grinder.
How the cylinder head is ground?
Before you start grinding, the cylinder head is defective, measuring the size of the deformation, so you know how deep to grind. Deformation is measured with a ruler, which is applied to the surface of the cylinder head in five planes: longitudinally in the center and along the mounting holes, as well as diagonally crosswise.
If the deformation is more than acceptable (0.05 mm), the head is ground. It happens that the head has already removed more metal than the amount of strain, for example, the head is not the first time grinding and it has filed off all that can. For scrap metal, do not hesitate, now there are no problems with spare parts, you can get anything.
After that you can proceed to grinding, you can not even rasuharivat, straight in the assembly to grind, just do not get to check the head on the cracks in this case.
The prepared head is placed on the grinding machine table and secured. After that cut 2-5 hundredths of metal from the head with the mill, until for several passes it becomes ideally smooth. After that, we measure again and if everything is normal, we can rinse off the shavings and place the head.
Step by step instruction
The cylinder head is ground mechanically at the service station using a special machine with a grinding wheel. The result of the process depends on the professionalism of the master. If it exceeds the maximum allowable grinding layer specified in the engine manual, the part will have to be replaced.
Grind the cylinder head by hand with sandpaper or a sharpening stone. It looks as follows.
- The surface is ground without applying excessive pressure, in a figure of eight or zero motion. Sharp, straight movements are not allowed.
- After the first grinding step, take a piece of glass to the size of the head and a small amount of diesel fuel. The surface is lubricated with diesel fuel and the glass is applied. In places where too much layer has been removed, a circle of liquid will form around the edges. Where an insufficient layer has been removed, an air circle with fuel around the edge.
- Then the glass is removed and the grinding process continues, taking into account the results of the control measurement.
- As soon as a perfectly flat, mirror-like surface is obtained, the cylinder block can be assembled and installed in the engine.
IMPORTANT. The excessively removed layer of metal during grinding can permanently remove the part, so the experts do not recommend to carry out the procedure by yourself without having certain skills.
Skillfully and carefully grinded cylinder head, subject to proper operation and maintenance of the engine, will serve the car owner many tens of thousands of kilometers. Violation of the procedure will require it to be repeated after a short time.
Other processing technologies
It is used for decoration of marble, granite, dolomite. The cavities in the stone are cut out 2-3 mm deep.
The product is processed on a thermal-hazardous machine. This enhances the color and texture of the mineral. It looks melted.
The rock is chipped with wedges. A random pattern of depressions appear on the surface of the cut stone, between 05 cm and 2 cm deep.
The gems are placed in a liquid abrasive medium and high-precision ultrasonic waves are passed through them. The method is used to give relief and remove excess rock.
What is necessary to prepare
First of all, before you start grinding the cylinder head, you need to prepare the tools. The most paramount thing you will need. a set of screws of different calibers and a ruler with a template.
In general, the second you will need only in order to estimate what exactly should be the head. The entire process is basically done solely by eye.
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This does not include cases where the process is performed on a cylinder head grinding machine, there are precise instructions.
It is mandatory to check the cylinder head before grinding. You should pay attention not only to dents and changes in the housing.
Also take into account the scratches and cracks, which will help to detect the ordinary paint.
We take a bright paint, we put it on the surface and in a couple of minutes wipe it off.
Cracks and scratches will leave paint. If you already can’t do the procedure yourself, it’s better to find out in advance how much it costs to grind the head of the block.
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