How to Clean a Chainsaw Air Filter
Husqvarna 55 chainsaw. RPMs float at idle. How do they adjust? There are two holes on the side marked L and H. However, getting in there is problematic.
After opening the cylinder and piston group, the crankshaft bearings along with the oil seals (made at the same time) will invariably be changed, because the old ones cannot provide the necessary tightness. You obviously did not. Idle stroke is floating and there is no idle time, especially due to old oil seals (air leakage, consistency depletion and consequent complete removal of the piston). I’m taking my saw in for repair. Believe me, even such a familiar device as a chainsaw can be repaired. Not even a common thing, and without the necessary knowledge it’s just not possible.
Husqvarna chainsaw 340 the following symptoms. If you keep the throttle on max. it picks up maximum rpm, holds it for 3-5 seconds, then they drop to almost idle, and so you release the knob again, press the button, it develops, and then drops again.
If you haven’t gotten into the carburetor, look at the filter in the tank and the mesh in the carburetor. And more air filter and carburetor options.
I cleaned the air filter, changed the fuel filter in vain. The carb options didn’t help, I certainly never sat in the carb where the grill is?
Remove the air filter mount, unscrew one screw from the top of the carburetor, center it under a screwdriver, remove the cover (gently gasket) and the diaphragm, and you will see here a small round mesh or dirt. Unfortunately, personally in this option I completely remove the carburetor and disassemble it a hundred percent, then spray it with carburetor cleaner, wait about 5 minutes and blow it out again, but before that I tighten the adjustment screws and consider the degree Turn one and two screws (better write them down) and then unscrew them completely (this is when I disassemble the carburetor). Something like that, and if you took the carb out for sale, completely check the impulse tube.
There is a Husqvarna 350 chainsaw that has been running for a year, oil leaks a lot and fuel leaks from the decompressor, I read about oil here and there but can’t find it, but I don’t seem to know about the decompressor that knows what.
You can check to reduce the oil supply if it leaks during storage. Most importantly check where and only then decide what to do next. If the decompressor is common (it has nothing to do with the automatic dust on these ashes), it may have to be lifted. If that doesn’t help, you can unscrew it and cover the hole with an appropriate screw or buy a new one. The oil pipe from the reservoir to the pump runs there inside the reservoir and ends specifically near the pump, flushed by the housing, where it just doesn’t leak. There is a second oil pipe left, from the pump to the place on the body opposite the hole in the tire bar. If you remove the cover, the tire bar and the iron plate that covers the pump (unscrew one bolt), then you will see a good period.
The Husqvarna 340 chainsaw only works at the highest speeds, it suffocates at medium speeds and stops almost immediately, and you have to constantly recharge it. There was a feature before the breakdown: it would start with a sharp gas pressure or when you didn’t have time to put the gas down and the wood was finished, it would squeak almost to a whistle. What it could be? Currently not starting at all, no spark found. The spark plug is dry. Took out the carburetor, the diaphragms were intact, the iron mesh was spotless, the filter was spotless in the tank. It looked out the carburetor window. The piston is hammerless, matte in color. He blew everything he could, put it back together, with 50 jerks it started and stopped, found the candle, the candle is wet, unfortunately not wet. Again, I pulled this about 30 times, started it up and started it at above average speeds, suction was pulled to maximum, it extended the suction, squeaked, choked, only a little gas was let out. I’m stuck, I can’t just start. For about 30 years it never worked on the intake (top position), and it died right away. Saw for 4 years, saw periodically, nothing fits, L and H screws are in industrial positions. Never had any problems left. What else do you like better?
Throttle completely blocked at startup? If not, air leakage through it must be repaired. And try to change the spark plug. Also, there is a rubber insert between the carburetor and the cylinder; this also cracks the air flow. If no one has turned the H and L screws (especially H), look for air leaks and don’t use dust until you find it! The piston is in danger. The impulse hose goes into the carburetor. Disconnect it from the carburetor, lower it into the gas tank and pull the starter cord. If bubbles appear, check for leaks where the carburetor connects to the intake tube, if there are no bubbles, then either the crankshaft seals or the gasket between the crankcase and cylinder. Or maybe you just need to adjust the carburetor and the failure is not easy. In the end, you need to start finding and fixing the cause from the more possible ones, and the elites. From more complicated. It’s very rare for a saw to go through its life in industrial conditions without tuning the carburetor, at least to the best parts.
How to remove the Husqvarna 435 chainsaw air filter
The air filter protects the chainsaw engine from sawdust and other debris. Find the right gasoline.
What role does the valve located in the carburetor of a Huskvarn 340 chainsaw play? Of course, that’s not so little to me. It’s not so kind; I usually can’t get to it with a screwdriver. As I understand it, there is a spring-loaded rubber plate in the center of the carburetor nozzle. What it’s for?
First. When removing the carburetor caps, gaskets, and diaphragms, make sure the needle valve is leaking gasoline. You need to pour gasoline on the carburetor screen, and to clean the carburetor better, press the needle valve lever from below. The cleaner should go through. The same applies to the underside. Pour cleaner into the needle area and press. It should go through the grill. To check the impulse tube, you must remove the carburetor tension, it is attached from below by two screws. Spreading the rack so that the pipe takes its place in the cylinder with your professionalism is a little tricky. It will be lighter (cf.), If you remove the starter. If the carburetor and air duct are fine. You probably need to disassemble the engine. Something with the piston, in other words lip seals.
Not too long ago, the Husqvarna 340 chainsaw started to stall if the throttle was abruptly dumped after dust. It started if you cleaned the air filter. You’ll like more dust. I have been running with a stale air filter for a while. Took it apart and saw. Maybe some debris got into the carburetor. If there is no load, you can prime and reset. does not linger. But you drink longer and lose. booths. Removed air and fuel filter doesn’t help. The spark plug is functioning fine. Could the muffler or fuel tank vent affect what else to look for? I’m afraid there is a carburetor problem, but I don’t want to go there yet. Or turn the T screw to add standby?
I have to say, it wouldn’t be hard for a carburetor to do that. But asks for an adjustment. Maybe a little to the right. Or maybe the L wants some too. Check the airplane idle it is clogged and the crankcase density is somehow better. I have no idea if you have anything other than what you need. And it’s probably a vacuum drop after friction in the load, heat (what’s it called even overheating). It’s gaskets either under the cylinder or in some areas of the fuel chain.
Will have to put up with this. Chains are permanently tightened and you will have to shorten them.
Bought a Husqvarna 55 saw. Press the decompression valve before removing the starter cord. Tell me if I forget to press the button, will anything happen to the saw? Or anything extravagant. And I’ve saved a few times that I forgot to reap.
Not just the force, not just the load on the starter. For these reasons the malfunction may occur. Starter cord breakage (not immediately, this).
Tell us how to attach a chain to a Huskvarn 55 chainsaw in 3/8 pitch. What model do the tire and drive sprocket options come from? The piece will be better 45 cm.
If the 3/8 is 1.5 mm. Is going to be a little heavy. Recycling is not difficult. On a 55 from the factory they put a profile star and then what is left to do, our customer runs to the ring (where the star is separate). So you just need to change the sprocket in the set, 325 to 3/8. I could be wrong, however, the star wheel coming from the 325, and the Oregon. 29175X. The star wheel there must have been replaced by a Gusquarno for another Oregon. And the bus. I know exactly what happens with a shank like this. But if you put a 3/8 narrow 1.3mm. I’m not sure if you can pick out a bus like that.
How to check the piston wear on a Husqvarna 345 chainsaw?
It’s easy to look at the piston. Unscrew the two screws and the muffler cap takes off. You’ll see right away. The grooves are not familiar, the exhausts. overheating, replace the piston, groove throughout. fuel, replace piston, separate deepest harrow. ring burst. change the piston.
Chain lubrication system malfunctions
Every service manual mentions the need to keep an eye on the condition of the chain lubrication system.
Usually problems in operation of the system occur due to clogging of channels through which lubricant is supplied. If there is not a significant oil leak, it is possible to continue operating. But if the oil leakage is significant, you need to check the tightness of the connection pipes to the pump connector. You can fix it with sealant and a new hose.
You should also pay attention to the condition of the oil pump. If there are cracks in its casing, it needs to be replaced.
A “rich” or “lean” fuel mixture will sooner or later cause a malfunction. May even be expensive. To prevent this from happening, it’s not unreasonable to check the filters regularly for scuffs, as well as a breakdown of the filter web itself.
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How to Check and Replace the Fuel Filter
To check the current condition of the fuel filter you need to perform the following actions:
If the gasoline is coming in irregularly and jerkily, it’s time to get a new filter element. It’s quite simple to do:
- Unscrew the fuel tank cap.
- Use tweezers or any other device to remove the filter itself.
- After disconnecting the old filter you must put the new one in the fuel tank.
How to Clean an Air Filter
If not enough air is supplied, the fuel mixture becomes over-enriched, causing the engine to malfunction. Regularly blowing out the air filter, and in especially severe cases, washing in a soapy solution will avoid such problems.
Please note that it is not allowed to wash in acetone, gasoline or other corrosive solutions. This can cause damage to the integrity of the filter element.
Faulty chainsaw fuel system
If the ignition system is okay, go further and check the chainsaw’s fuel system.
Disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and see if fuel comes out of it or not. How to clean your chainsaw and when and why you need to clean the air filter or muffler of Chinese chain saw Goodluck, STIHL and other manufacturers. Fuel filter for Chinese chain saw. How to clean the filter how to clean the air filter on. If the fuel flows in a free trickle, then everything is fine. the cover and the filter are working properly. How to Clean Air Filter How to Clean a Gasoline Filter on a Chainsaw. If the fuel mixture does not leak at all or leaks very little, then clean the cover hole (breather) with a needle.
If all of the above steps have failed, your chain saw may be suffering from a malfunctioning carburetor.
A chainsaw is a simple device that, with proper care, can last for a long time. At the same time, the saw is a tool exposed to various loads and, therefore, breakdowns do occur. About what caused a particular malfunction and how to fix it, you will learn from this article.
Faults of the Chinese chainsaw: an overview of popular and ways to solve them
Buy a cheap chainsaw made in China is not very difficult: the markets, construction hypermarkets and online stores offers a huge number of chain saws from the Celestial Empire. But the low price almost always conceals poor quality.
The most popular malfunctions of Chinese chainsaws should include:
- Poor operation of the lubrication system. Clogged oil ducts can be cleaned, and if the oil pump fails, it needs to be replaced.
- The starter cord breaks.
- Breakage of the plastic starter shaft. To replace it, you can use an ordinary metal bolt.
In the case of the slightest suspicion of improper operation of the chainsaw, it is worth immediately making a complete diagnosis of the tool. Only with proper operation and timely maintenance can you count on a long life of the chainsaw.
Chainsaw Repair with their own hands. The breakdown of the breakdown and how to fix it
It would seem that for what a chainsaw a gardener, who is engaged in the cultivation of fruits and vegetables, or a suburban homeowner, who has a small garden and a few flowerbeds? The question falls away when there is a desire to build a banya, renovate the greenhouse, to plow an old case or just to make a bench for recreation. Unfortunately, though any mechanism at times in need of prevention and replacement parts, and this requires an excellent understanding of the device products, in addition to the chainsaw repair with their own hands will save time and money.
In most cases, the following problems are encountered in the operation of the engine:
- the engine has stopped starting;
- The engine starts, but stops after a while;
- The engine is not able to develop the necessary power;
- Engine is running very erratically.
How to check the crankshaft oil seals
The presence of packing leaks can only be checked by getting to the crankshaft itself, and carefully examining it for leaks. About how to do it right, you can read on
How to check the compression on a chainsaw
If the compression level is less than 8 atmospheres, the engine will not have enough power, and therefore the chainsaw will not be able to function properly.
- Remove the protective cap and unscrew the spark plug.
- Insert the tip of the compressometer in the hole where the spark plug should be located.
- Use the starter cord to put the piston in rotation and remember the maximum reading of the gauge.
How to correctly put the piston on the chain saw
Work on the replacement of the piston for most models of modern chainsaws is carried out according to the following algorithm:
- Remove the top and side covers.
- Unscrew the spark plug.
- The stoppers are removed from the shock absorbers, and the handle is detached from the body.
- The drive sprocket and starter are removed.
- A piston lock is put in the spark plug hole and the nut that secures the flywheel and clutch is unscrewed.
- Flywheel, clutch, oil pump worm drive located right after the clutch are removed.
- The screws that secure the carburetor and air filter are loosened and the assemblies are removed along with the motor control lever.
- Remove the ignition coil and the muffler.
- Turn the saw upside down, remove the housing screws and disconnect the motor.
- Unscrew the sump and remove the piston.
- Since the piston is only removed together with the crankshaft, the retaining rings must be removed in order to undo the piston.
- Replace the old piston with a new one, as carefully as possible. This is caused by the high brittleness of the compression rings.
- The carburetor is put back in place and a sealant is used instead of the gasket.
All of the following steps are performed in reverse order of disassembly.
Cleaning the carburetors on STIHL and Husqvarna chainsaws
No matter what brand you use. STIHL, Husqvarna, Partner or any other. The carburetors on all models are cleaned in the same way as described above. The only difference is a few design features. On STIHL chain saws the carburetor has copper-plated or brass jets, which must be removed for cleaning.
Similarly the adjustment of the mechanism on chainsaws from the manufacturer Husqvarna is carried out. The device differs only in design, but the principle of adjustment is similar to that described above.
Removing and disassembling the engine
The engine is held in place by four screws on the bottom of the STIHL 180. To remove them, it is necessary to unscrew them, and then carefully remove the engine from the seat and the rubber spigot of the carburetor.
To disassemble the engine unscrew the 4 screws of the crankcase, and it is removed, then you can remove the crankshaft complete with oil seals, bearings and piston rings.
Removal of bearings and oil seals usually requires no additional tools
, but if, the bearings were pressed on the shaft with force, then a special puller is needed for disassembly.
to remove the piston from the connecting rod, you need to remove the retaining ring from the housing, with a thin screwdriver, then from the opposite side squeeze the piston pin, and then the piston is removed to the side.
Problems with the starter mechanism
Many problems arise when trying to start the engine of a new saw or a unit that has been in storage for a long time. In this case, it is necessary to:
- Move the switch to the “closed choke” position;
- Forced the fuel mixture into the carburetor by the pump;
- Pull the starter rope to a position where you really feel the resistance of the motor;
- Pull hard on the starter rope a few times. The engine usually starts but immediately stops;
- Pull the lever to the operating position and retract the starter cord. The engine should start normally.
Whether the fuel mixture is “rich” or “lean” will sooner or later cause a malfunction. Perhaps even an expensive. To prevent this from happening, it is not unreasonable to regularly check the filter for abrasions, as well as a breakthrough of the filter web itself.
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How to check and replace the fuel filter
To check the current condition of the fuel filter do the following
If the gasoline is coming in irregularly and jerkily, it’s time to get a new filter element. This is quite easy to do:
- Unscrew fuel cap.
- Use tweezers or any other device to remove the filter itself.
- After disconnecting the old filter, it is necessary to put a new one and lower it into the fuel tank.
How to clean an air filter
If not enough air is supplied, the fuel mixture becomes over-enriched, which leads to malfunctioning of the engine. Regular air filter flushing, and in especially severe cases, rinsing in soapy water will help avoid such problems.
Please note that washing in acetone, gasoline or other aggressive solutions is not allowed. This can compromise the integrity of the filter element.
“Rich” or “poor” fuel mixture will sooner or later cause a breakdown. Possibly even an expensive one. To prevent this from happening, it is not unreasonable to regularly check the filters for scuffs, as well as for a breakdown of the filter web itself.
Read also Burn out the stump with saltpeter
How to check a fuel filter and replace
To check the current condition of the fuel filter you need to do the following
If the gasoline is coming in irregularly and jerkily, it’s time to get a new filter element. This can be done quite easily:
- the fuel tank cap is unscrewed.
- Use tweezers or any other device to remove the filter itself.
- After disconnecting the old filter, it is necessary to put a new filter and lower it into the fuel tank.
How to Clean the Air Filter
If there is not enough air in the tank, the fuel mixture becomes over-enriched which leads to malfunction of the engine. Regularly blowing out the air filter, and in particularly severe cases, washing in a soapy solution will avoid such problems.
Please note that washing in acetone, gasoline or other aggressive solutions is not allowed. It can damage the integrity of the filter element.
Specifics of the lubrication system and oil selection
Fuel tanks are chosen according to the exact volume. At maximum output, it is permissible to choose components with a small amount of oil.
Saw’s fuel system: 1. fuel filter, 2. carburettor, 3. manual priming pump.
If the carburetor is adjusted correctly, it will use only as much fuel as is necessary. Otherwise it will run out too fast.
It is normal for the fuel to run down slowly when the saw is in use. If there is no oil, the chain is not lubricated correctly and therefore the chainsaw has to work in harmony. It is important not only to be able to repair the machine, but to find the problem yourself.
The fuel supply can be changed manually. To check if the lubrication system works correctly bring the guide bar close to the guide bar. If you see splashes of oil, it means that everything is set up correctly.
It’s a good idea to cut with plenty of lubricant. If soft wood is to be handled, a small amount of combustible fuel is fed.
Always keep the chain well lubricated. This will avoid smoke and further failure of the entire chainsaw. If oil leaks or doesn’t come out at all, the cause of the problem must be found. It is not recommended to use the tool before the repair.
Choosing the right fuel, it is necessary to do it properly. The desire to save money causes the chain to fail quickly. To avoid unpleasant consequences, it is undesirable to choose oil made in China. Preference should be given to original brands. Their price range is much higher, but they have better quality.
Troubleshooting chain related problems
Always check that the chain is properly lubricated while the chain saw is in service. This is the part that is subjected to the most severe working conditions. The chain is subjected to constant overheating, dust and abrasive particles are clogged in it. All this has a negative effect on its service life. Lubrication is the answer. Fuel flows to the chain from the oil reservoir, ensuring unobstructed operation.
If there is no lubrication during operation, there is a high probability of overheating. When oil is not being supplied, the chain starts to slacken. There is still a chance of it jamming or popping, and you could get seriously injured as a result.
Fuel lines can become clogged with tiny particles, so periodic cleaning is advisable. It is important to keep an eye on the oil level in the tank as well. Debris in the channel often causes the chain brake not to work. This could interfere with operation.
Continuous channel cleaning and general care of the chainsaw allows the tool to function for a long time.
But what to do if all the recommendations are followed, but the oil still leaks. It is necessary to make sure that the chainsaw works properly. It is very likely that it has not been assembled correctly. If the breakdown was not detected, it is recommended to take it to a workshop. In some cases it is necessary to replace the pump, but this should be done if the saw is new. Old tools leak because the tank is worn out.
The current state of the chainsaw can only be assessed by an expert. If you have no knowledge or lack of confidence in your own abilities, it is advisable to entrust the repair of the tool to a professional.
Every chainsaw, regardless of model, brand, or class, has approximately the same structure. It consists of several important nodes, among which is the lubrication system. Without the latter, the work of the power unit is impossible. Due to the functioning of the system of forced lubrication, the chain of the tool reduces the risk of severe wear, which is guaranteed by the constant friction of the cutting element on the guide bar, the inevitable heat. Lubrication of the chain mechanism softens friction, the chainsaw operator needs to repair this element or replace it completely much less often.
Chain saw fuel system components
After a superficial acquaintance with the system and its construction, let’s examine each of its elements with all the attention to nuances. Different chainsaw models have different shapes and how they fit. Detailed features of fuel system components, with clear photographs, below.
In most models, the fuel tanks are integrated into the frame and are a monolithic structure with a handle. Replacement of such a tank in case of burning or mechanical damage, requires complete reconnection of gas levers and air damper (in addition to hoses). There are systems that at first sight may seem separate (STIHL MS 440 for example), but even so the tank is permanently attached to the housing and is not sold separately from the handle.
The fuel tank can be housed in the engine housing as well as the chainsaw body (e.g., Partner 351). If it is damaged, it is more time-consuming and laborious to replace the fuel tank because it requires disassembly of almost all parts of the machine, including the engine. Fortunately such designs are not always monolithic and there are tools where the fuel and oil tanks can be removed (STIHL MS 180), making repairs much easier.
Fairly important and popular accessory that protects the carburetor and engine from dirt and premature failure. Two filter types: plastic housing and metal housing. Nylon (in plastic Chinese elements), felt (in all types of bodies), cortex (in plastic) and polymer foam (in metal) can be used as a cleaning material.
Regardless of the material of manufacture, every chainsaw fuel filter has a weighting piece to guide it to the lowest part of the tank when the saw is tilted.
The highest degree of protection against small particles is provided by polymer foam and cortex. Felt is no less reliable, but clogs up pretty fast. The nylon nets for such purposes categorically are not suitable, therefore, having got the Chinese saw with similar equipment it is better to change it at once for one of the specified above. The replacement must have an identical diameter of connector, which can be 3.5, 4.5 и 5.5 mm.
The most flexible part of the system, which performs fuel transfer from tank to carburetor and primer (if any). In budget versions, it is made of silicone and equipped with a grommet or no grommet at all and just fits tightly into the hole in the tank. Better quality hoses are made of dense gasoline-resistant rubber, and in the role of sealing contact, have special tabs, pressed to the tank on both sides.
Of course, as far as durability is concerned, a special rubber fuel hose for chain saws has a longer life span before it starts to dry out and crack.
In a classic chainsaw system, there is only one fuel line connected to the carburetor inlet connection. If you have a hand pump (primer), the number of hoses increases to 3, where the first performs the main role, the second connects the carburetor and primer, and the third removes excess fuel from the primer back into the tank.
Check valve (breather) chainsaw
Devices of small size, but of great importance for the entire fuel system. Located in the upper part of the tank and provides normalization of the pressure, with a reduction in the volume of fuel. Of the most common, we can distinguish 2 types of breathers: simple (cone-shaped) and collapsible (float). Both are widely used in both amateur and professional tools.
In addition to the standard valves, some saw models are equipped with completely unique elements. For example, to replace the breather on the Makita EA3203S and STIHL MS 660 you will need to pick up a completely identical part.
If the passage channel of the valve is clogged, the tank will cease to receive the air needed to normalize the pressure against the fuel being pumped out. Since the tank is hermetically sealed, it will begin to produce a vacuum. With each new “eaten” batch of fuel, the carburetor will have more and more difficulty pumping. At this rate, the operation continues for several dozen seconds until the diaphragm pump is stopped. If the tool stalls due to a clogged breather, when the gas tank plug is unscrewed, air is sucked in sharply, normalizing the pressure.
The main distributor and intermediate between the gas tank and the combustion chamber. Includes a diaphragm-type pump, powered by air from the engine crankcase through an impulse channel. A fuel hose is connected to the second connector, transferring the mixture from the tank. If the chainsaw is equipped with a primer, a modified carburetor model is installed in it, with an additional (third) connector.
How to Check the Fuel Filter on a Chainsaw
A reduction in the capacity of the main fuel line, causes highly undesirable consequences such as a drop in power or complete stoppage at higher engine speeds. These are the problems that can be a clear signal that the fuel filter is dirty. The more pronounced such malfunctions, the more clogged the channel.
It is not always possible to determine the necessity of replacement by visual inspection. On the surface of the filter may look clean, but its inner part is clogged with small particles and suspended particles. To find out for sure, you can do some testing by removing the filter and running the tool without it. If it works correctly, it means that a new element has to be installed.
In companies that use a chainsaw regularly, 5 days a week, the filter should be changed about every 3 months. If the tool burns ≈ 5 liters of fuel in 1 day, then in 60 days 300. For household saws, this figure can be divided by 2, because they are equipped with less reliable filters. As a result, in home / hobbyist use, it should be replaced every 150 liters or once a year.