How to raise the crosscut saw up

Zubr mitre saw how to lift

Often first-time masters, not having enough knowledge, but having a great desire to buy a new tool, ask the question: “How to choose a crosscut saw for wood??”A similar question is not quite right

With the sawing of wood species will manage no matter what cutter, because this is what it is created for. But how you like the result of the work depends not so much on the tool, but rather on its installed accessories. a saw blade

Technology slots.2. Landing cross section.3. Outer cross section.

External cross section value.5. Maximum rotational speed of the disc.6. Circular saw blade with 96 teeth.

Disc thickness value.8. Faceplate diameter value.

Asynchronous motor

The asynchronous motor is considered a more economical, reliable, and quiet engine. It has no contacts of any kind, which means nothing to make noise, overheat, or malfunction under the influence of external causes such as dust, moisture, vibration. Except for bearings there is simply nothing to wear out, that’s why similar units can serve without any complaints for 10 years.

But not all manufacturers of power tools tend to equip their products with such, at first glance faultless, motors, asynchronous engines and have their own significant drawback. low power at a rather high weight.

A 2 kW motor of this type weighs over 20 kg, for example. Agree, it is rather problematic to move manually the working block with such a pendant. In addition, when supplied with power at industrial frequency, the asynchronous motor is in principle not capable of speeds greater than 2850 rpm./min. Naturally, the use of modern materials and powering a motor with a high-frequency current to some extent negate these problems, but do not remove them one hundred percent.

How to create raised corners of the lips with cosmetics

The easiest way to give your lips the desired shape is to apply the correct lipstick. Makeup artists usually advise the following makeup:

    On the upper lip is applied dark contour so that it did not reach the edges of the lips, as if cutting their corners;

A great many people neglect lip pencil, and in vain: the pencil allows you to draw an optimistic lip shape and keeps lipstick from getting trapped in the kitty wrinkles around your lips. Use a waterproof pencil. To make your trimmer line more stable, powder it.

  • Muted lipstick to paint the lower lip a little brighter than the upper, making it Accent;
  • Secure the result by applying a little gloss to the center of the lower lip.

Many people make the mistake of trying to use matte lipsticks. As a rule, matte lipsticks are applied in a thick layer and dry out the lips, making wrinkles even more evident.

Botox injections. Performed by dermatologist Elena Vlasova.

To forget about wrinkles, makeup artists advise making a lip peel of honey and sugar, 1:1, before applying lipstick. Then moisturize your lips with eye cream. When the cream is absorbed, apply a semi-gloss lipstick to the entire lip area.

As a result of this procedure, creases in the corners of the lips, if not cease to be noticeable at all, at least are not conspicuous. But it is fair to say that all the time to live with painted lips. it is doubtful fun, and your loved ones will definitely want to see you without makeup.

How to adjust a coping saw to zero

The crosscut saw is usually already set to zero position at the factory. But, in case you have already adjusted the tool before and want to return it to the zero position, it is worth adjusting the stop to the 0 degree position and pressing the disc against the tool guide. All parts must be pressed firmly together, which can be adjusted by tightening the fastening screws.

Many people encounter such a problem as tool locking when they buy a crosscut saw before adjusting it. Most manufacturers pack the tool in a locked condition for safety reasons. And if it is not always clear from the manual what to do with it, then to unlock it you need to do the following:

  • Press the lever on the control knob of the tool. Be sure to follow safety procedures when unlocking, otherwise you risk not only damaging the tool but also injuring yourself;
  • Pull out the locking pin of the end saw. Do it very carefully and slowly to avoid damage to the tool and risk of injury;
  • Carefully lower the lever on the control handle until the tool blade comes out and the lever itself is in the upper position. When doing this you should take all necessary precautions and keep your hands away from the saw blade.

That’s it. there is nothing complicated about unlocking the mitre saw. The most important thing is not to hurry and to be careful when doing this. With some simple thought-out steps, you can easily unblock your tool.

How to cut a 45-degree angle

It is most often necessary to cut the skirting boards for the inner corners of the room. To trim, place it in the fixed stationary position in the jig. Press the outermost edge a little further into the kerf at the 45-degree mark on the right-hand side. Cut the baseboard with a hacksaw blade. If its longest part is on the right side the corner to be cut is right-handed, respectively, if it is on the left-hand side it is left-handed.

Remember that the side of the skirting board that is pressed to the side wall of the chair when trimming the corner, when installing will be glued to the wall, and the side that is pressed to the bottom of the chair, will be glued to the ceiling. Having cut two corners: left and right, place the product in the corners to check the accuracy of the cuts made. Any small discrepancies can be corrected with a sharp knife.

Less common in apartments are outside corners. When trimming the baseboard to design such corners, you must first make a mark at the beginning of the outer corner. To do this, press the product against the wall and make a pencil mark the edge of the wall corner where the cut will be made. Notice, that before drawing a mark, the skirting board should be prepared for gluing, i.e. it should have a cut inner corner or be ready for straight docking.

Put the skirting board in the plane and press it down. If its longest part is on the left, make the cut at the left mark of the jigsaw, corresponding to an angle of 45 degrees. The side that is pressed against the side wall, as when cutting an inside corner, will be glued to the wall when installed.

When installing, make sure the underside of the outside corner follows the outside corner of the wall, or protrudes slightly. Cut the right side of the corner in the same way.

raise, crosscut

Sharpening a one / two person crosscut logging saw

To cut a corner on a wide plane, use a construction angle. Apply it so that the inner part fits snugly against the end of the product.


The Metabo KS 305 Plus. Designed for high-precision cutting of wood, wood derivatives and plastic panels. Cutting can be done obliquely and at an angle of 0 to 47 degrees in both directions. Rugged 2 kW motor provides high torque for fast, precise cutting without chipping or cracking. The clever design and comfortable arrangement of the operating elements provide additional comfort when working with this saw.

  • Mitre saw Metabo KS 305 Plus
  • saw blades (80 teeth)
  • tool for replacing the saw blade
  • dust bag
  • chip extractor
  • laser guide (built-in)
  • two table extenders

Trimmer Metabo KS 216 M LaserCut as a variant for the home

I had the need to saw the aluminum profile Aristo from the stilage system under 45, and even under 90 degrees. If with the latter I can do quite satisfactorily with a jigsaw (yes, yes, jigsaw hands), then the 45. neither a jigsaw nor a jig was ideal for various reasons.

If the theme was familiar to amateurs. many eventually came to Jet, Corvettes and other trimmers, and of course Metabo KS 216 M LaserCut,

After reading the information on various forums, the impression is mixed. 50 to 50. And the most detailed information that I came across, from 2011. And a lot may have changed since then, including the quality of production.

So I took it yesterday, and I will try to solve my problem. If the topic is of interest, let me know, I’ll try to disclose.

I’m starting with the expectation that for 5K I can get a trimmer from a more or less brand, with a laser, and the ability to set it up once, t.к. You don’t have to carry it anywhere. it’s homemade. For professionals, imho, it’s still not an option. Nevertheless, the purpose of the topic. the quality of the output.

In the meantime, the first results of inspection and testing (true, with the native disc, while on wood). those who “out of the box” got 45 degrees, or bad measurement, or statistically fall somewhere in 1/5 probably. In general, you can get 45 out of the box, but there are doubts that the 4 bolts that set the stop for the workpiece, in most cases screwed in the factory as it should:

I had an error of a degree and a half. I’ll state right off the bat that specifically the encor angle and t.п After adjustment I almost managed to correct it to the native 45, but it is still a bit off. the stop lugs have run out of stock:

I’ll leave it that way for now and see how it cuts tomorrow:

It seems to be more accurate when measuring from both sides. So far we assume that the blade is parallel to the slot. By eye and ruler, it’s like this.

About the laser. If you press the angle against the corrected stop, the beam fits perfectly on the middle line for the trimmer on the encor’s angle. Т.е. good out of the box. I thought I was going to have a hard time with its uncomfortable setup, as many people write.

I don’t understand one thing. the laser illuminates the bar on the workpiece to the left of the disk, in the place where the material stays, and to the right of the bar. the saw starts. Is it like this?? Т.е. The “usable” part of the workpiece is better on the left side?

Altruist2 wrote : T.е. The “useful” part of the workpiece is more correctly fed from the left?

Yes.hold the workpiece with your left hand, or fix it with a clamp, and the right hand rests on the handle and turns the saw, making the cut.True, if you are right-handed. It is more convenient.

Yes it is interesting, share your experiences, how evenly and without bumps cuts the corner (the wood is interesting in the first place)

The first work is done. So a couple of corrections:

  • About the “backlash” of the circular part of the bed together with the whole junk (t.е. with respect to trimming it is not, once again I clarify). Cancelled. It is only if the knob is not screwed in, on the 45 it is not there at all. Apparently, the grooves at standard degrees give it a “grip”.
  • Laser. Fairy tale, here on the wood after cutting with the native disk:

With the aluminum/plastic blade (Ataka z60) the laser needs to be reset, t.к. the disc is thinner. If I don’t reset it, there’s about 1mm more left to the right of the laser after the saw. I left it like this.

Barmolei. I can’t say anything about scuffing.к. The native disk 40k teeth, and although it says “precision cut”, in practice, all about it wrote that for a clean cut it is not suitable. I was cutting something like a pine staple wide (3cm), it’s covered with paint and a few coats of varnish, and soft. not bad in principle, t.к. dried up a lot, but cm. below.

The trimmer has an unpleasant feature. undercut the furthest corner about half a millimeter. And both with the native disk on wood, and with the Ataka on aluminum. There are two ways to solve this. or the butt should be adjusted so that it was in a position closer to the operator (it is not certain that there are those free 0.5mm, when fine tuning), or put something between the stop and the workpiece. I did not have much trouble when sawing a 30×48 profile, I just finished with a file, until I began to address this issue. Again. I read about this feature on the network, and it was not a surprise.

On the setting of the angle. After the first unsuccessful adjustments (the error was decent. by 0.5 degrees, which on the frame had already accumulated 2), and already replacing the disk on the one for which I took the facing tool, I decided to fine-tune it. And then I realized that it is logical to do it this way:

The fact that the slotted inlay is not flush with the bed disc. Somewhere in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев to the end mill, I even read that a man thought it was a disadvantage, and changed it for his own of hardwood, sawing on the spot. I really don’t know why. But in the case of an angle of the type in the photo, it’s not flush, it’s just the thickness of the metal of the angle, and it fits perfectly and tucks under the stop.

And oh my god, after another readjustment of the stop and using the native 45 degree marker (before that, I set the marks near to 45 degrees, because of the lack of stop travel), I actually got a good angle. The funny thing is that it matched the laser. I don’t know exactly, but probably the saw blade isn’t exactly parallel to the slot after all, but the laser seems to be factory tuned to fit the blade. Maybe there’s a pattern to it, x.з. Once again I am glad that I did not have to bother with the laser.

I cut 90 degrees later without rebuilding anything. everything is ok.

What came out. Here’s an example of 3 profiles, sawed with a jigsaw, a jigsaw (Makita 4329K with a thick Bosch saw on Alu, divorced) and a jigsaw (plastic copeland, but the blade 18-th Bahco):

You can’t tell which is which from the photo? In reality, even the jigsaw is a good cut, though not on the bar (with the bar will take away at this thickness 90%). I saw with this trimmer, with Ataka Z60 blade is great too, it goes like butter, the edge is perfect.

First results of cutting. 4 vertical sections of Aristo, 2200mm. Already with nozzles on one side. Well, 4 more horizontal profiles sawn into the wall.

At such lengths, and with a tape measure of the second class accuracy, I think an error of 1 mm in the length is acceptable, the more so as in this system of profiles, it is about nothing at all. The reason for the error, as you can guess, is the laser, which I didn’t reconfigure for the thinner non-standard disk. Sawing by precise marking but with a gap from the laser “by eye”.

How to choose a mitre saw

Trimming saws differ in their technical features and can be of the simple (conventional) or combined type, which somewhat expands their functionality.

The difference of combined models from usual is that their design implies the possibility of transformation of the end saw into a circular saw by carrying out the uncomplicated movements of the saw’s main elements.

Zubr ZPT-255-1800″ model with belt drive and broach

Additionally an important functional characteristic is the broach, which also expands the possibilities of the used saw. Trimmer saw with pullout.In a special publication of our portal we will tell in detail about mitre saws

You will learn the scheme of the device and the principle of operation, the basic and additional functions, the features of combined face saws and the rating of the best models of crosscut saws with wood broaching 2019

Trim saw with broach.In a special publication of our portal, we will tell in detail about crosscut saws. You will learn the scheme of the device and the principle of operation, the basic and additional functions, the features of the combined cut-off saws and the rating of the best models of crosscut saws with wood broaching 2019.

For stationary installation, it is better to use models that have a broach function, which allows you to process wide wooden workpieces.

Universal crosscut saw model “Makita Lh1040”

Tips for choosing conventional and combination models

In order to make the right choice and take into account all the nuances associated with the peculiarities of using such equipment, it is necessary to listen to the advice of experienced users, which can be formulated as follows:

  • The tool must be suitable for its intended use. do not buy an expensive and powerful model if you intend to use it occasionally and for personal purposes.
  • In a similar vein one should consider the presence of additional options that increase the cost of the model, but are not used at low volumes of work.
  • The availability of safety equipment is an important consideration when selecting a crosscut saw.к. Incorrect use can easily result in injury when working with such equipment.
  • Because power and weight are directly related, a smaller but lighter model is better for “traveling” work.
  • The size of the circular saw blade and the availability of the broach determine the tool’s technical capability to cut the material you are cutting.
  • The frame must be heavy enough to hold the saw in place, and the rotary table and stops must hold the material securely in place.

Guidelines for the selection of wood mitre saws

Wood trimmer “Makita LF 1000” brand When selecting a model that assumes a stationary installation and intensive work, you should pay attention to the following points:

  • power and weight in this case are not the main selection criteria, and the most important indicator will be the spindle speed, which determines the purity of the cut;
  • The permanently installed tool must have all sorts of short-circuit current and overheating protection for the electric motor;
  • the size of the saw blade should be as big as possible, which will expand the capabilities of the device;
  • A broaching mechanism is optional, but highly desirable, because it also affects the functionality and cut finish of the saw.к. it also affects the functionality and performance of the tool;
  • equipment with additional options is only to be welcomed, t.к. it also has a positive effect on the labor intensity of operations performed on such equipment.

recommendations for universal mitre saws

Metal crosscut saw model “Metabo CS 23-355” The main selection criteria for saws designed for cutting metal, the same as for analogues that involve working with wooden workpieces, but, in addition, you should remember that

Different types of discs are used for different kinds of metal, so special attention must be paid to their intended use and the size of the seat and outside diameter. the wider the metal workpieces to be cut, the larger the diameter of the saw blade must be. The blade guard must completely cover the blade during operation. Cutting depth limiter enhances capabilities of the machine. A more powerful electric motor has a greater capacity and heats up less during operation.

Circular saw

The circular saw has a cutting mechanism. this is a toothed saw blade. It serves for a longitudinal cut, although with additional rails it is possible to angle the blade to get cross and slant cuts. Quality of cut is affected by the type of blade, its diameter, shape of teeth, and sharpening angle. The more teeth. The lower the speed, but the quality of the cut is better. Circular saws have a cutting capacity of one to two and a half kilowatts. Some of these tools are very difficult to handle by weight.

Trim saw is a variation of circular or circular saw. It is used for angular and bevelled cuts at different angles. It differs from the above models in that it is fixed in a frame, which in turn is connected to the work table. The blade can move up and down, maintaining the angle at which the cut will be made. The saw can be tilted by means of a lever.

In this type of sawing, the blade can be turned in different planes and the guides on the work table feed the blade without deviating from the set parameters. These features make the saw popular and in demand for repair work, it can cut not only wood, but also tiles, metal profile.In addition, there are combined trimming saws, where the cutting disc is able to turn 180 degrees for a few movements, and you can get a full-fledged circular saw. The ability of the disc to rotate allows you to work with more complex workpieces.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade saws

Having the device helps solve several issues:

  • The edges of the parts become smooth without burrs;
  • allows the joining of adjacent structures at an angle;
  • no gap is left between the parts when joining them.

The main advantages of working with self-made trimmer:

  • first. saving on the purchase of construction material;
  • Second. the technical characteristics of the tool can be selected by yourself: the engine power, the size of the cutting disc, the cutting depth.
  • The duration of operation depends on the type of material used in the creation of the equipment;
  • homemade units are not equipped with safety systems;
  • Home devices do not have special graduation.

For your reference! How to make a coping saw from an angle grinder can be seen on YouTube channel.

Possible faults and repairs

Frequent malfunctions of a crosscut from an angle grinder with their own hands.

Surface mismatch at the side stop

Negatively affects the accuracy of the cut. If you notice a difference in sawing on the right and left side during operation, in this case it is necessary:

  • Remove stop.
  • Prepare a thin piece of gethinax.
  • Make a pattern of the leveling surface.
  • Place it on the tabletop.
  • Glue the gethinax to the sides with epoxy resin.
  • Trim the unevenness.

The sawing accuracy is not correct

The reason could be a crooked rim. To correct such a result you should:

  • Disconnect the machine from the mains.
  • Raise the guard.
  • Place marker on toothed disc surface.
  • Turn it a full turn.
  • Loosen the saw’s fixture and turn it 180 degrees.
  • Tighten the disk.
  • Apply a marker of a different color and repeat the rotation.
  • Compare the two rings you have drawn.
  • In case of discrepancy replace the disc.

Repair of motor and gearbox

If there is a smell of burning, sparking in the motor, the motor hums, but the disk does not rotate, you need to do the following actions:

  • Remove the disc.
  • Take out the gearbox.
  • Inspect the brushes.
  • Check the grease.
  • Call a handyman or replace with a new motor or gearbox.

How to Sharpen a Crosscut Saw | Two Man and One Man

The end circular cutter from a manual circular saw is not often used in home construction. However, having it at home will not be superfluous. The main thing is that the saw performs its functions well and cuts parts at a certain angle in different directions. Wood trimmer with my own hands. an indispensable helper in the construction of individual buildings and structures.