What the symbols on the Makita battery charger mean?
Red and green lit steadily. Battery is low. charging. Battery is more than 80% charged. Lights up green. Battery is fully charged. Red and green blinking. The battery is low. Lit in yellow. battery is conditioned.
Then what’s the difference between the Makita bl1830 and bl1830b?
Makita BL1830 18V lithium-ion battery 3.0 Ah. MAK-BL1830B. Lithium-ion BL1830B has no memory effect and is much lighter than other chemical batteries. 22-minute recharging in the DC18RC charger, and battery capacity indicator LEDs that show how much power you have left, at the touch of a button.
With that in mind, what the Makita LXT stands for? Makita. technology. LXT. Xtreme lithium-ion technology. LXT.
| Warranty | 12 months or longer depending on the number of charges | 12 months or longer, depending on how many charges |
| Our prices | 139 | 249 |
| Where I can buy? | ETH! | ETH! |
One Battery Fits All. Instantly go from drilling holes or mowing the lawn to chopping firewood with one battery fits all system. Simply slip the battery from one Makita tool and insert it into another Makita machine. The 3 powerful batteries all in this range offer different run times and charging times.
Don’t drain the battery. We recommend discharging Ni-Cad batteries completely, at least once every 20-30 days if you want them to live longer. You can leave what is the battery in the charger after it is fully charged, but only if allowed by the manufacturer.
What to do if the battery charge light on your laptop isn’t on
As a rule, in most laptops, the battery charge indicator is not lit when the device is running on battery power.
The LED usually starts blinking when the battery charge level falls below 10%. When approaching a critical level of charge, the indicator starts blinking orange or red.
If the charging indicator is not lit when the AC adapter is connected, and charging does not go on, you should check the contact in the socket of the laptop power supply. It is often disrupted by careless handling of the device. You should also pay attention to the cable. it may be damaged.
If the battery charge indicator on your laptop does not light up. but the device is charging and working in normal mode, then you should check whether the indicator itself is functioning properly.
Laptop power failure occurs for a variety of reasons. Sometimes the question of why the battery in a laptop is not charging can only be answered by an expert. But before the service center solves the problem, it is necessary to check the correctness of the battery yourself with simple manipulation.
The laptop battery does not charge. causes
Not always the laptop battery is the reason for the lack of charging. Practice shows that the reasons can be:
- of system nature (BIOS settings, utilities);
- from mains power outage;
- from a bad contact in the charging circuit (socket, cord, power supply, or AC adapter);
- When the battery contacts are oxidized;
- from the malfunction of the power connector.
Physical wear and tear
When the laptop does not charge, the first thing that comes to mind is that the cause is battery wear and tear. However, this statement is true only when the device serves the 2nd, 3rd year. The battery performance of each notebook is determined by its manufacturer, its installed capacity and frequency of use. Standard service life is 2-3 years, or 800 charging cycles. After that (the battery is a consumable item) the capacity drops.
If the limit according to the technical parameters is exhausted, then with full confidence you can replace the consumable. Where to dispose of the old one, read the manual under “Disposal. Before doing so, rule out other causes, analyze with the program Battery Health for iOS (free). The software Windows 7 (8) contains a utility called Battery Care, which will also determine the necessary settings. Three basic features:
Bad battery power
The reason why the battery in laptops doesn’t charge may lie in the power supply. You need to check that the socket is working. If the power does not appear, follow the chain:
Schematic, device, repair
No doubt, power tools greatly facilitate our work, as well as reduce the time of routine operations. All kinds of self-powered screwdrivers are on the market now, too.
Let’s look at the device, circuit diagram and repair of the Interskol screwdriver battery charger.
To begin with let’s look at the circuit diagram. It is taken from the real printed circuit board of the battery charger.
The printed circuit board for the battery charger (CDQ-F06K1).
The power part of the charger consists of a GS-1415 power transformer. Its power is about 25-26 watts. Calculated with simplified formula I mentioned here.
18V AC voltage from transformer secondary goes to diode bridge through FU1 fuse. The diode bridge consists of 4 diodes VD1-VD4 type 1N5408. Each of the diodes 1N5408 withstands a direct current of 3 amps. Electrolytic capacitor C1 smooths out voltage ripples after the diode bridge.
The heart of the control circuit is the HCF4060BE chip, which is a 14-bit counter with elements for the master oscillator. It drives a bipolar transistor of p-n-p structure S9012. The transistor is loaded by electromagnetic relay S3-12A. On chip U1 implemented a kind of timer, which turns on the relay for a predetermined time of charge. about 60 minutes.
When the charger is plugged in and the battery is connected, relay contacts JDQK1 are open.
The HCF4060BE is powered by the AVR VD6. 1N4742A (12V). The step-limiter limits the voltage from the supply rectifier to about 12 volts, since its output is about 24 volts.
If you look at the diagram, it’s easy to see that before you press the “Start” button the U1 HCF4060BE chip is de-energized. disconnected from the power supply. When you press the “Start” button the supply voltage from the rectifier comes to the regulator 1N4742A through the resistor R6.
Then the reduced and stabilized voltage goes to pin 16 of the chip U1. The chip begins to work, and also opens the transistor S9012, which it controls.
The supply voltage is fed through the open transistor S9012 to the coil of the electromagnetic relay JDQK1. The relay contacts close and the battery is energized. Starts charging the battery. Diode VD8 (1N4007) shunts the relay and protects the transistor S9012 from reverse voltage spike, which is formed when de-energizing the relay winding.
The diode VD5 (1N5408) protects the battery from discharge in case the mains supply is cut off.
What happens after the start button contacts open? From the diagram it is seen that when the electromagnetic relay contacts are closed plus voltage through the diode VD7 (1N4007) comes to the stable coil VD6 through quenching resistor R6. As a result the chip U1 remains connected to the power supply even after the contacts of the button are open.
Replacement battery.
Rechargeable battery GB1 is a block with 12 nickel cadmium (Ni-Cd) cells connected in series, each 1,2 volt.
In the schematic diagram the elements of the replaceable battery are shown with a dotted line.
The total voltage of such a compound battery is 14.4 volts.
There is also a temperature sensor built into the battery pack. In the diagram it is marked as SA1. It is similar in principle to the KSD series thermal switches. The marking of the thermal switch JJD-45 2A. Structurally, it is attached to one of the Ni-Cd cells and fits snugly to it.
One of the leads of the temperature sensor is connected to the minus terminal of the battery. The second output is connected to a separate third connector.
The circuit algorithm is quite simple.
When you plug in a 220V network charger does not show its work. The LEDs (green and red) are not lit. When the replaceable battery is plugged in, the green LED lights up, indicating that the battery charger is ready for use.
When the “Start” button is pushed, the electromagnetic relay closes its contacts and the battery is connected to the output of the mains rectifier and the process of charging the battery begins. The red LED lights up and the green LED goes out. After 50 to 60 minutes, the relay will open the battery charging circuit. The green LED lights up and the red LED goes out. Charging is complete.
After charging, the voltage across the battery terminals can reach 16.8 volts.
This operating algorithm is primitive and with time leads to the so called “memory effect” of the battery. That is, the capacity of the battery is reduced.
If you follow the correct algorithm for charging the battery, first each of the cells must be discharged to 1 volt. Т.е. a block of 12 batteries needs to be discharged to 12 volts. In the screwdriver charger this mode is not implemented.
Here is the charging characteristic of one 1.2V Ni-Cd battery cell.
The graph shows how the cell temperature (temperature), the voltage at the cell terminals (voltage) and the relative pressure (relative pressure) change during the charge.
Specialized charge controllers for Ni-Cd and Ni-MH batteries usually operate on a so-called delta method.ΔV. In the picture you can see that at the end of charging the cell voltage drops by a small amount of about 10mV (for Ni-Cd) and 4mV (for Ni-MH). According to this change of voltage, the controller determines whether the cell is charged or not.
Also during charging the temperature of the cell is monitored with a temperature sensor. Here you can see on the graph that the temperature of the charged cell is about 45 0 C.
Back to the screwdriver charger diagram. Now it is clear that the JDD-45 thermal switch monitors the temperature of the battery pack and breaks the charging circuit when the temperature reaches about 45 0C. Sometimes it happens before the HCF4060BE timer goes off. This occurs when the capacity of the battery has decreased due to the “memory effect”. Full charge of such a battery is a little faster than 60 minutes.
Reviews and tests
Even though nickel-cadmium batteries are an outdated technology, they have been proven over the years. I have a whole bunch of different cordless 18 volt drills, but I wanted a smaller and lighter model to drill small holes, when the 18 volt drill is not necessary. I looked at different models of drills and found a Makita 6270. I was quite happy with its performance and think that the drill deserves to have its description published. Which I do!
A drill that can be upgraded! To begin with, this particular drill model can be upgraded. I’m talking about battery technology. “Makita makes nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) rechargeable batteries that fit this model, and since the charger is also included and suitable for charging the battery, it turns out that you can turn this machine into a drill that runs on a NiMH battery. All it takes is the purchase of a compatible “Makita” NiMH battery.
Makita 6270D cordless drill Now let’s get to the description of the drill itself. The entire set costs up to 100 USD, which is a pretty affordable price for a high-quality drill. It comes in a plastic case with molds that hold a 12-volt drill, two 12-volt 1.3 Ah NiCad batteries and a 110-volt battery charger that can charge NiCad and NiMH batteries from 7.2 V to 14 V. In addition, a double-sided drill is also available. The drill itself has fairly simple functionality, but it does the job well and is well made. You can feel the quality of the drill in the design and pick it up.
The drill is compact in size, making it easier to get into tight places than with a large long drill. From the tip of the chuck (chuck holders extend) to the motor part, the drill is 192 mm long. Height is 239 mm from the end of the handle. electric screwdriver weighs 1.5 kg, so it is light enough to work with all day without fatigue. You can also work with this lightweight drill with your hands above your head.
The drill is powered by a 12 volt motor that gives up to 350 rpm in low-speed mode and up to 1200 rpm in high-speed mode A switch is located on the front of the motor to control maximum drill speed and torque. Variable speed is controlled by the starter. As with many cordless drills, speed increases when you loosen the starter. An electric brake will stop the clamping chuck from turning if you release the starter to prevent the screws from twisting. When it comes to torque, the Makita 6270 is on point. The torque is higher than some of the cheaper 18-volt models and higher than all of the quality 12-volt nickel-cadmium battery drills I’ve compared it to. The torque is very good for its size. This is partly why I chose this model over the others. It can support up to 30 Nm (266 lb (120.66 kg) max torque). The drive assembly is made of metal and gears, which ensures the long-lasting reliable operation of the transmission. In addition, the drive housing completely encloses the feeder mechanism from dust. 10-millimeter chuck does not require a wrench and allows you to use drill bits that are nearly equal in diameter. The mechanism has 3 grip areas and is designed so that even the smallest drill will hold firmly and securely in the chuck. The thumbwheel is behind the chuck, which means that you need both hands to manually engage the drill bit in the chuck. Just behind is a dial for making adjustments. There are 16 settings available for the drive and 1 for drilling (which is basically just maximum torque). With those 16 settings, it’s almost impossible to twist a screw or fastener into any material. The higher your number of settings, the more torque before self-shutoff. Knob turns very smoothly and locks into place, a proof of its well-thought-out design and comfortable use.
In terms of control, here we have the standard forward-stop-backward switch just above the trigger, as well as various speed modes. Nothing fancy. There are rubber inserts on the handle for a comfortable and firm grip. This is also standard on almost all cordless drills. Design of the handle itself is well thought out, the drill fits well in your hand and the balance is good, but the center of gravity is shifted forward a bit. Although it doesn’t cause wrist fatigue, at least for me.
Batteries are easily inserted into and removed from the electric screwdriver. The drill’s drilling capacity, namely the recommended drill hole diameters for the different materials are indicated in the manual: 10 mm for steel, 25 mm for wood. These figures are not factually correct, in fact you can often use larger drill diameters without any problem. But as experience shows, if you need to drill holes with a larger diameter, you will most likely need another tool or a more powerful drill. As I said before, this Makita has good power and torque for a 12 volt drill.
Battery and charger Two 12 Ah 1.3 Ah batteries are included in the kit. As mentioned above, you can buy a NiMH battery to match your drill if you want to use more advanced technology. The 1.3 Ah battery is definitely suitable for homework and simple tasks. longer use will require higher-capacity batteries. You can purchase a 2.0 Ah NiCad battery for this drill, or if you need even more capacity, a NiMH battery suitable for this 2.6Ah or 3.0Ah model.
You may have already heard about the main advantage of lithium-ion technology. it’s fast charging. Many NiCad batteries normally take 3-4 hours to fully charge. Nevertheless, charging technology has come a long way, and a NiCad battery can already be charged much faster. For example, I was able to charge one of the 1.3 Ah batteries in the kit with a regular Makita charger in 34 minutes, only 4 minutes more than the advertised 30 minutes. According to the documentation, a 2.0 Ah battery will take about 45 minutes. For 2.6 Ah NiMH batteries, the battery will charge in 60 minutes and the 3.0 Ah battery will charge in 70 minutes. These are good results for charging when using the “Makita” DC1414 charger from the kit. The DC1414 charger is high voltage and will charge a Makita battery from 7.2V to 14.4V. If you have “Makita” batteries from other models, you will have another charger for them. The batteries are simply plugged into the charger jack (you can only plug them in one way), you plug in the cord, and the charger does all the other work. There is only one indicator light on the battery charger but it will illuminate differently depending on the color and blink mode. For example, if the light is flashing green, it means that the charger is plugged in and ready to charge the battery. If the light is red it means that the battery is charging. When the light is green, it indicates that charging is complete and the battery can be removed. If the light blinks red, that means the battery is too hot to charge. In this case, the charger will delay charging until the battery has cooled enough to begin the charging process. If green and red blinks alternately, it means the battery may be damaged and cannot be recharged. I hope you do not see this signal at all!
English. Makita DC10WA Instruction Manual
WARNING. To reduce the risk of injury, charge only rechargeable Makita batteries.
Use a power source with the voltage specified in the battery charger rating table.
After charging and before attempting any maintenance or cleaning, disconnect the charger
the charger from a power source. Pull the plug, not the cord, every time you disconnect
Make sure the cord is positioned so it won’t be stepped on, tripped over, or anything else,
Do not operate the charger with a damaged cord or plug. replace them immediately.
Do not operate or disassemble the battery charger if it has been hit, dropped, or damaged in any other way
way; take it to a qualified service technician. Incorrect use or
Do not attempt to use the step-up transformer, alternator, or DC plug.
Connect the battery cartridge to an AC power source with suitable voltage. Light bulb
Insert the battery cartridge so that the positive and negative connectors on the battery
When the battery cartridge is fully inserted, the charging lamp will change from green to red and begin
The battery charger is designed to charge the Makita battery cartridge. Never use it
If the charging lamp flashes red, the battery is in one of the following states, and charging
A battery cartridge from a tool that has just worked, or a battery cartridge that has been left in place,
A battery cartridge that has been left for a long time in a place exposed to the cold
Charging will begin after the temperature of the battery cartridge has reached the point at which charging is possible.
If the charging lamp flashes alternately green and red, then charging is not possible. The terminals on the battery charger
terminals of the charger or battery cartridge are contaminated with dust, the battery cartridge has reached the end of its service life, or