How to Connect a Hansa Hob to the Electric Power Connection Terminals
The first and most important thing to know in order to perform these operations properly is the power of the appliances to be connected.
The power of an electric oven and hob is related to the chosen mode of operation of the device and the number of burners involved. But to calculate the wiring diagram and subsequent safe operation, we only need to know the maximum power of the oven and stove, which is measured in watts (W) or kilowatts (kW).
The maximum power of electrical appliances is always specified on the device itself, on its packaging and in the operating instructions. So for the oven, depending on its type, model and the presence of additional functions, the maximum power ranges from 2.5 kW to 4 kW, for the hob this value can take from 6 kW to 9 kW.
Materials for installation of electric hobs
According to SP 31-110-2003 under the power supply of electric hobs shall be organized by individual power line of electrical wiring. Do not plug the line from the kitchen junction box or other outlets. Do not use extension cords or power strips.
Power up to 3.5 kW allows the use of the usual 16A euro socket. The average consumption for modern functional models of hobs is 7-8 kW. In this case, you can’t do without a 40A power socket. Rules for connecting electrical appliances determine the location of the socket: no higher than 90 cm from the floor, below the oven or away from it. There is an indentation at the bottom in case of flooding.
The plug connection for 40 amps is 5. 7 cm. A gap between the wall and the kitchen unit would be inconvenient. An alternative is to remove the back wall of the cabinet or saw a hole in it. Cooking surface is connected to the power plug with a wire PVS or its analog, which is included in the package of the device.
Contacts of feeding wires and wires of the panel are connected directly by means of GML sleeves or an assembly box. This connection makes it difficult to wet clean the surface. To de-energize the stove, each time turn off the circuit breaker in the switchboard.
The cable selection is calculated by a formula, based on the power consumption of the appliance. If the conductor is not thick enough, an automatic circuit breaker will be triggered, otherwise the wiring itself will burn out or cause damage to the equipment. Copper is the conductor material. Suitable cable types are marked VVGng-Ls or NYM. You can calculate the cross section yourself by referring to the table of PUE. 36 mm2. universal, if not yet decided on a particular model.
Stripped of insulation conductor ends are made into solid pins by pressing lugs NSHV. The branch circuit is protected by a residual current device or a residual current device.
How to connect the cooktop electrolux?
” Electric ” How to connect the cooktop to a single-phase and three-phase network
Buying new appliances, few people look at the power requirements, and in vain. In older homes, there are problems when installing high-powered appliances: you may need to pull a separate line. So connecting the hob to maintain the warranty requires compliance with all requirements of PUE.
This means that you need a dedicated line with the appropriate wire cross section, with a circuit breaker installed on the mowing line. This line can be terminated with a special socket or can be terminated with a terminal box.
If installed will be a socket, the cable from the hob should end with a power plug, when installing a terminal box terminate the wire ends with clips, you can tinned and twist them into a ring.
Figuring out how to connect the hob
Cooktop Wiring Diagrams
Almost all new models of hobs made in Europe can be connected to networks with a different number of phases. There are two standards in our country: single-phase 220 V and three-phase 380 V. In some homes, 220V comes with two phases. If we talk about the number and color of wires, here’s what can be:
- Single-phase 220 V network.
- Two conductors. Occurs in houses of old construction. In this case, the wires are usually of the same color. You can find the phase by using a probe (screwdriver with an LED) or a tester. It is easier to work with a probe: if when you touch the probe to a live part, the LED lights up. it’s a phase, if not. neutral (zero).
- Three wires. Most often the wires are colored. Red or brown is phase, blue or blue is neutral, and green/yellow is ground. If the wires are the same, the phase is found with a probe, and to determine the neutral will have to look for a multimeter or tester.
In order not to make a mistake, even if you see all the colors named, it is better to check everything (call): often during installation builders get confused. To avoid trouble, check and sign (hang tags).
The peculiarity of cooker hobs is that they often come without a power cord. This is not due to greed manufacturers, but because they can be connected by several schemes, which use from three (in our case. from two) to six wires. Therefore, in addition to wire to connect to the electric meter, you must also buy a power cable. His take the same cross section as in the supply, but more convenient to use stranded. they are well bent.
How to connect the wires in the junction box read here.
Connecting to a single-phase network
Most of the questions arise if you need to connect the electric cooktop in the network 220 V. Most often the panel has 6 leads: three phase. L1, L2, L3, two neutral (zero) N1 and N2 and ground PE, but in the apartment only three or even two wires (in old buildings). This is not terrible. it is necessary to install jumpers, but first we are looking for where on the hob are the terminals.
The small panel with terminals may protrude above the surface, or it may be recessed
To get to the wires, on the back we find a small cover. It can be made of metal or plastic and can be screwed or clipped to the case. Remove it. Inside is a terminal block with six contacts. If there are three wires in the apartment, unite the contacts on the cooktop:
If you bought the equipment in the store, it must come with installed jumpers that connect all these wires. The wires of the power cord are connected in this case to each contact group: one to the phase, one to the neutral, and the yellow-green one to ground.
Connecting the hob to the power grid: this is how jumpers should stand for single-phase 220 V network
If you have lost the jumpers somewhere, you can make them from copper wire with a cross section of 6 mm2. To connect was more convenient, use tips. forked or circular, whoever is more convenient. They are more convenient for clamping stranded wires, and it is easier to bend a ring out of one strand.
With three wires in the network of 220 V connection cooktop will look like the photo below. Note: the “ground” wire is connected to the upper contact of the socket, the phase can be on the right or left. it is not so important, but exactly the same should be bred wires in the socket. Make no mistake.
Diagram of connection of the hob to a single-phase network
If the wires from the counter comes only two, there are two ways to proceed:
Installing a ground loop is necessary if you want to keep the warranty: when connected without grounding it is not valid and any damage to the hob (even an obvious factory defect) in the warranty repair or replacement equipment for a working you will be denied.
How to connect the hob 4 wires
Many models Electrolux (Electrolux) and Zanussi (Zanussi) come with a cord installed. Seems good, but it has four wires: zero, ground and two phase wires (black and brown). If there are three of them in the apartment. it is not clear which ones and where to put them: connecting a four-wire wire from the cooktop has its own nuances.
How to connect if the hob comes with 4 wires, and in the socket they are three
In this case you also get to the place of the terminals on the back of the case. The cover of such models is plastic and not on bolts but on clips. You just pry it up with a screwdriver.
After opening the box, look for the earth (yellow-green). Next to it there is a jumper for the two inputs. You take it and connect the two phase outputs. L1 and L2 (connected conductors black and brown). Just a little loosening of the terminals (by turning the screws with a screwdriver), you put a jumper, then you tighten the terminals. Everything else is the same. In the future, when you connect the plug, use only the brown wire, and insulate the black wire well (better. with heat shrink tubing).
Read here how to connect an RJ-45 socket and crimp the connector.
Connecting the hob to a three-phase 380 V circuit
To connect the hob to a 3-phase network, a cable with five copper conductors of 2.5 mm2 cross-section is required. Single-core or multi-core. by choice.
In this case a jumper is needed only on the two neutral wires. N1 and N2 (some models only have a numerical designation, there unite 4 and 5 outputs). No need to change anything on the phase wires: one of the phase wires must be connected to each phase.
The cable to connect the cooktop to the three-phase system
The cable may or may not be the same color as in the photo. According to the second standard, the phases are colored: red, yellow, green. This is not so important. It is much more important to correctly connect all the wires to the plug, and not to mix them up at the socket.
How to connect the plug to a 380 V cooktop
Note that in this case, the neutral is connected at the top, the ground at the bottom, and the phase wires in the middle. The same order should be repeated at the socket.
If the equipment comes with a 4 conductor cord, one of the phases on the plug is simply not used. Which one. it does not matter, just do not use the same lead in the socket.
220 V with two phases
If both in the apartment and from the panel comes four wires. everything is simple. Connect the corresponding colors. Differences usually do not happen: phase. black and brown, zero. blue, ground. yellow-green. Difficulties arise if there are six outputs or if the cord comes with five wires.
As you probably guessed, two phases are combined. The union of the two neutrals (if they are present) is also valid. Everything else is connected to the corresponding pins of the plug.
The arrangement is similar: Neutral at the top, ground at the bottom, and phase in the middle. Don’t forget which of your phase outlets are empty so you don’t have to redo.
Selecting cables and fuses
As you’ve already figured out, you’ll have to run a separate line from the panel to the cooktop. Most likely you will lay it hidden, in a box, corrugated hose or tunnel. In this case it is allowed to use only copper cable:
- For single-phase network with a power of electrical equipment from 5.5 kW to 7.7 kW cable with a core section of 6 mm2 (VVG 36 or PVS 36);
- for three-phase up to 16,4 kW power 52,5 mm2 (KUVV 52,5 or KUGVV 52,5) is enough;
After leaving the counter you need to install a circuit breaker. This is a mandatory requirement. There are also recommendations. to protect the equipment and ensure proper safety to put RCD (ground fault interrupter). Such a combination allows you to turn off the power not only in case of overload (circuit breaker triggers), but also in case of problems with the insulation (RCD triggers). RCD. not the cheapest thing, but the cooktop is incomparably more expensive, so it is better not to save.
Diagrams for connecting the cooktop to the electric meter
- For a single-phase network, we take a circuit breaker for 32 A, RCD for 40 A with a differential breaking current of 30 mA.
- For three-phase. circuit breaker 16 A and RCD for 25 A with a differential breaking current of 30 mA.
They are connected by wire segments of the same cross section (see the diagram above): 220 V 6 mm2, 380 V 2,5 mm2.
On the assembly of the electrical box with their own hands, read here.
Socket and plug
The cooker hob must be connected using power sockets and plugs or a terminal box. Power sockets and plugs are designed for currents greater than 10 amps, are made of special plastic, may have a cover. The rule of engagement is simple: their rated current must be not less than the automatic unit current. That is, to connect an electrical appliance to 7.7 kW single-phase network take 32A, for three-phase. 16A.
How the sockets and plugs for the cooker hob might look like
There is no single standard, so the shape and location of the pins can be different, it is important that there is the required number of pins and electrical characteristics correspond. It’s clear: it’s better to trust trust trusted brands, not Chinese products.
You can connect the cable from the device and the power supply in the terminal box. This method is also called “direct connection” or “direct connection”. It is more reliable, but to turn off the stove will have to go to the electrical panel and turn off the circuit breaker on the RCD or circuit breaker.
Connecting the panel without a plug
If you are not satisfied with such a socket and you want to remove the junction box or subocket, you can do this with two options: sleeves or through mounting box.
Connecting the cooktop electrolux 4 wires to the socket, which has only three wires, may at first be surprising. The fact is that in many cooktop cables with four wires are designed for both single-phase 220V connection, and two-phase, 380V. It is very convenient that half of the burners can operate from one phase and the other half from a more powerful.
You can use the second phase for more than just control power. If you want to connect everything to normal 220V, you should just remove one wire (black), insulating it. And then you’re left with a zero, a ground and a phase. It is also possible to connect two phase wires through a single lug.
Very rarely, but there is a variant with a 5-core cable. They are designed for 380V and used for high-power panels from 7 kW. And in order to connect them to our network of 220V, you should connect in pairs of 2 wires and one insulated. But this connection is not quite right, because the protective conductor must be the same cross section as the phase.
Installing the hob
The electric hob must be installed according to general requirements, regardless of the type of heating element, which uses a high frequency induction field or resistance heating. These types of appliances are virtually indistinguishable by their external design, so the same tools and supplies are used for their installation in the kitchen. If we talk about electric panels of any kind, they are all built into the furniture. Those devices that are located on the surface of the furniture, are called electric stoves without an oven. To consider the process of how they are installed, we will not.
How to install the hob correctly? This question arises if the furniture suppliers have not cut a mounting opening on the countertop of the kitchen furniture. If you decide to perform this operation yourself, then you will need the following tools: an electric jigsaw, drill, wood drill bits, ruler and pencil, as well as a screwdriver and pliers. The step-by-step algorithm of work on installation of the built-in hob is presented below.
- Determining the dimensions. In the first step, determine the dimensions of the opening, in which you need to embed the device. This information is reflected in the instruction manual of the appliance. If this is not available, the oven housing must be measured accurately. Add 5 mm to the table’s dimensions for an optimum clearance.
- Marking the opening. To do this, you will need a long ruler, an angle piece, and a pencil. The installation aperture must be positioned at least 50 mm from the edge of the table. Otherwise the thinner portions of the tabletop may be destroyed, especially if it is made of low-quality chipboard. This concludes the preliminary work.
- Drilling holes. At the corners of the resulting rectangle must be drilled four through technological holes, not going beyond the marked contour. The operation should be performed with a wood drill 8-10 mm in diameter. It is necessary to drill strictly perpendicularly to the surface of the table top, firmly holding the drill in an upright position.
- Cutting out the opening. Insert the blade of an electric jigsaw with fine teeth into one of the holes and make the cut of the tabletop according to the marks, firmly pressing the tool to the table surface. Similarly, cut through the countertop along the marked contour. After completing the work, check that the dimensions of the mounting recess correspond to the seating of the electric hob.
- Finishing the ends. The ends of the installation aperture must be protected against the effects of water. You can use for this a special sealant or any other material, capable of protecting the wood base of the tabletop from the negative influence of moisture. Glue the sealant supplied with the hob to the edges of the installation opening.
- Final step. In the final step of the installation of the hob, carefully place the device in the mounting opening. Before this operation, a layer of silicone sealant can be applied to the area of the worktop that will be covered by the edges of the hob. The hob must rest flush with the worktop surface and with as little gap as possible. Fixing the panel to the worktop using the standard fixing clamps.
This concludes the installation of the induction cooktop or any other type of hob. Just check that the device is securely fastened to the tabletop and you can move on to the next step. We have told you how to install the hob, now let’s describe the process of connecting it to the power supply. These chapters of the article can be considered as a guide for those who are going to connect the electric cooktop to the power supply themselves. Let’s Begin! The next section of our narrative will be devoted to the wiring diagram of the cooktop.
RCD and automatic circuit breaker
Rules of operation of powerful kitchen appliances assume the use of such apparatus as a ground fault interrupter (RCD) and automatic circuit breaker in the network. This will prevent accidents if the integrity of the conductors can be compromised and protect against electric shock.
The automatic gas burner control must be selected according to the type of hob. If the technique is characterized by average power, a single-phase circuit breaker for 20A is installed in the network. If the equipment consumes 4 kW per hour, then the voltage cutoff device should be purchased for 32A. The RCD should be one point higher than the circuit breaker. If the circuit breaker, for example, is characterized by 32A, then the circuit breaker must be purchased with parameters of 40A.
To select the technique and elements of connection for the presented kitchen equipment should only an electrician. Doing it yourself without basic knowledge is life-threatening.
Connecting the oven to the power grid
To correctly select the cable, socket, and plug to connect the oven, if not supplied, you need to determine the power of the stove. To do this, refer to the data sheet of the electrical appliance, which will specify the rated power and wiring diagram of the oven.
Autarkes Ceranfeld anschliessen Kochfeld anschließen mit Duspol Küche 400V Starkstrom Anleitung
Many people wonder “what cable is needed to connect the oven”, the power of which does not exceed 3.5 kW. To solve this problem will approach a flat three-core cable with conductors cross section of 2.5 mm2, such as cable VVG-P 3h2, 5-0, 66 production JSC “Kavkazkabel, consistent with GOST 31996-2012.
The cable of the given factory has the color marking of cores: white, blue and yellow-green (w/z). In addition, to perform the connection of an electric oven to the mains will also be needed:
To provide additional protection against electric shock, it is recommended that connection in the switchboard through a differential device (RCD, differential automaton).
It is recommended to provide such a device in advance or install it in a shield. If you also intend to install an electric cooktop, the oven and cooktop can be connected from a single disconnect switch, selected by the total load.
In the box we run and fix the power cable VVG-P 3×2,5 to the intended location of the socket, which will be connected to the electric oven. The end of the cable in the mounting box must have a length to spare for reconnection.
It should be noted that the choice of location of the socket should be made at a convenient height for operation (up to 0.9 meters from the floor), but it should not be behind the oven. It is best to install the socket on the right or left side of the oven.
After that, you do the finishing work and install the electrical fittings. Strip the cable in the installation box and connect the socket:
If the oven is not supplied with a plug, it must be connected. To do this, we disassemble the previously purchased 16A plug and pass the stripped and pressed wire of the oven through the special hole in the case.
Then fix the wire and assemble the plug. You can now carry out a functional test by connecting the electric oven to the socket and connecting the power in the electrical switchboard (the automatic disconnect lever must be pulled).
If everything is working correctly, you can install the oven in the recess that has been prepared for it.
How to connect an electric oven with a power rating of more than 3.5 kW
Nowadays, electric ovens with a power of more than 3.5 kW are available on the market.
In order to connect the oven to the mains for this power, we first need to answer a few questions: “what kind of cable is needed to connect the oven?”, “what wire is needed to connect the oven?How to connect an electric oven with an electric capacity of 3.5 kW” and “What wire cross-section is required to connect the oven??”.
To solve the questions “what wire is necessary to connect the oven” and “what wire cross-section is necessary to connect the oven,” we recommend using a 3-core connection wire with a cross-section of at least 6 mm2.
For example, wire PVS 3×6 production “Kavkazkabel” Ltd. (color marking of cores. brown, blue, yellow-green).
In addition to the power cable and the connecting wire to connect the oven to the electrical grid, we need a concealed socket to connect the oven and the plug is rated at 32 Ampere.
Install a power cable VVG-P 3×6 from the fuse box to the junction box and connect it to the diphasic switch is done in the same way as in the previous version. But the socket must be connected as follows:
If the connecting wire is not connected to the oven, then connect it. To do this, remove the protective panel and pull the 3-core wire PVS through a special hole at the bottom of the cabinet. Strip the insulation, crimp the stranded conductors with lugs and make the connection:
If there is no marking on the terminals, you must refer to the data sheet, which specifies the wiring diagram of the oven.
Once the cable is plugged in, clip it on and put on the cover plate. Test it by connecting the electric oven to the power grid and turning on the power in the electrical panel.
If everything works without any problems, install the oven in the niche that has been prepared for it.
Oven power kW
The power consumption of an oven can vary from 1 to 4 kW. Models that have a value in the range of 2 to 3 kW are among the most common appliances and are simple devices for domestic use.
If models with a power consumption of more than 3.5 kW are used, a separate socket capable of carrying a higher current should be installed. This is necessary to ensure the normal operation of the electrical grid.
Such electric appliances have a convenient control panel, which displays data on the cooking process and other information about operation. The presence of additional functions affects the power consumption of the oven in kW, so you should also pay attention to this parameter.
Such electric appliances are divided into several classes according to the degree of energy consumption. There are 7 classes, which have the following indicators of energy consumption (kWh):
All of these figures apply to Bosch low-volume built-in ovens. If we talk about appliances with large dimensions, it is worth noting that such appliances, belonging to class A, will consume from 1 kWh.
Gas models can have a capacity of about 4 kW, which does not really affect utility bills, because gas is much cheaper than electricity.
The standard temperature ranges from 220 degrees. This means that the optimal power of a built-in oven should be 2.5-3 kW. In this case, the maximum temperature can be 250 ° C.
If the oven comes with a factory plug, it may not be demountable, but cast in one piece. And then cutting it off entails a loss of warranty, be careful in this matter.
But as a rule, in the latest models with the oven, does not come with a set plug, so you also need to connect it yourself. This is explained by the fact that in different countries, the oven can be connected to at least several types of completely different outlets. And guessing the manufacturer which plug is needed where, simply is not profitable.
Again, it makes no difference where it goes, phasing doesn’t matter here. Yellow-green grounding wire to the middle contact. To prevent the wire from hanging around inside the plug, use a wire compressor to secure the wire and screw the body of the plug in place.
Important note: When plugging in wires, never be guided solely by the colors of the wire insulation. Be sure to unscrew the cover of the terminal block on the electrical socket.Check the oven and check which wire is connected to which terminal (see below for the correct connection to the terminals).
When for some reason there is no access to the terminals, or there is a warranty seal, use an ordinary Chinese tester, multimeter. The ground wire should be connected to the body of the oven.
And so when you connect the probes in the insulation measurement mode to the core and to the body, you should hear a beep or the display should show zero. That is, resistance R=0 Ohm. That’s how you find the ground, the remaining two wires will be phase and zero.
Wire cross-section for the oven
If you have to pull a new line, you must first determine the cross section of the cable. On average, the maximum power consumption of ovens is 3-3,8 kW. But these are peak loads, in which the equipment is operated very rarely. In normal mode, consumption is rarely more than 2 kW.
Nevertheless, it is correct to calculate the wiring precisely for maximum consumption. For cables with copper conductors, the recommended cross section is 2.5 mm2, the circuit breaker is 16 A.
This is with a solid margin of power (recommended load up to 5.9 kW), but this is the recommendation of almost all manufacturers and only under these conditions, they retain their warranty obligations.
|Current, A||Power, W||Current, A||Power, W|
One more nuance: all modern appliances are designed for grounding. That’s why three-core cables are used. VVGng, VVGngLs and other non-flammable varieties can be used for wiring in the house or apartment.
NYM is also suitable. These cables are optimal in terms of price/quality ratio. You’ll need three-core cables. 32.5. Just measure the wire diameter and calculate the cross section when selecting. Too many manufacturers began to make the wires thinner than declared to save money. Therefore control is necessary.
When installing a more powerful ovens. with built-in steam generators. they recommend using cables with a wire cross section of 4 mm2. They use a 25 amp circuit breaker on the fishing line.
In general, the connection of the oven to the electricity with recommendations on the cable used and the ratings of protective equipment (automatic machines) are described in detail in the product data sheet. And it is better to listen to the manufacturer’s recommendations. They are not interested in a breakdown of their own products and give recommendations with a margin of safety.