Swivel head, 20 bits included
This multifunctional screwdriver is indispensable for work at home or in the workshop, easy to use. Suitable for professional and domestic use. A compact carrying case prevents you from losing the mowing head of the set (there are notches in the carrying case).
The swivel head is compatible with most modern screwdrivers. The special design allows a fast change of the working tool, saving time and effort. Made of quality metal alloys. It does not deform during work, has resistance to increased loads.
The nozzle for cutting metal on the drill why and how to use
When there is a need to cut thin sheet metal, you must use an angle grinder or hacksaw. Only the use of these tools is not always rational, for example, when covering the roofs with profiles. Especially for such cases there is a metal cutting bit on the drill, the use of which makes it possible to make a neat and accurate cut. Why it is better to use such a nozzle, and how to use it correctly, we will find out in detail.
How cricket cutters work
To imagine the work of cutters is simple enough. in fact, it can be compared to a chisel, which makes punctures in the metal with great frequency. Another comparison could be a modern electric jigsaw, in which the standard saw with teeth is replaced by a punching rod (chisel). This robot principle, which combines a punching tool and a jigsaw, opens up a wide range of possibilities and allows the tool of this type to be used even for shaped cutting of sheet iron. It is for this reason that modern builders use “cricket” for cutting:
These are not the only reasons why the drill bit cutting shear attachment has become widespread in the field of construction and repair.
Drill attachment for metal cutting. YT-160A cutter scissors.
Hi all! Tool manufacturers increasingly produce various additions to power tools, thus expanding their functionality. So, for example, today you can easily convert a chainsaw into an angle grinder (angle grinder), an angle grinder into a drill, and a drill into scissors. It is the latter that will be discussed below. Naturally, this “improved” tool is inferior to the original ergonomics, perhaps productivity, well, in general, the convenience of use. And most likely targeted not for professional, but for domestic use. As much cheaper add-on (module) to an existing drill than buy a separate tool to perform a specific function. Whatever the case may be, there are always fans and opponents of this modernization. I first thought about buying the device. this summer. I had the need to cut 250 m2 of metal tile thickness 0.5 mm, for a four-pitch roof with skylights (who knows. knows that the cut is decent), and since manufacturers are prohibited to cut steel tiles angle grinder with abrasive wheel, the choice is between electric scissors and conventional hand scissors (such as “pelicanes”). Looking through ads for sale electric shears, I was attracted to the nozzles on the drill similar to this one. To confess at that time I did not buy it because of the lack of real reviews from the masters, and to commercials somehow do not trust. Rejecting the idea of buying expensive tools, I bought some high-quality hand scissors. fortunately, in the brigade there was a guy with strong hands and an empty head, which actually determined his role in the work). And so half a year later I got this device for review. Perhaps many readers will be confused by this fact, but it can not change. I apologize for wasting time on such a long introduction. I will try to be as objective and informative as possible in describing my impressions of the device and its performance. Let’s go! The hero of the review is packed in a blister: a cardboard backing on one side shows examples of use on the other a description of the device and an instruction manual. With the tool is also a universal spanner (“open-end” 12mm and 4mm. hexagon) for the disassembly and assembly of it. The manufacturer has specified the following tool characteristics: maximum thickness of materials cut. steel of normal quality.1.8 mm stainless steel. 1.2 mm copper, aluminum. 2 mm plywood, plastic. 2 mm Cutting speed. 2 m / min at 3000 rpm. The minimum cutting radius is not specified. Recommendations for the performance of the drill, except for speed (3000 rpm) is missing. General view of the tool The working part consists of a matrix and a movable punch, which is set in motion through the eccentric mechanism. By the way it is not exactly a pair of scissors, because the working elements cut the material forming a chip and the cut is of a certain width (4mm), which goes against the classic definition of scissors. as you can see in the photo. the punch (rod) has a ledge, it is he who is the cutting part. Material is “bitten” between the punch and die and then cut. I think the principle of operation will become clearer after watching the clip:
As you can see there are two working parts of the tool. After working off the resource of one of them, we simply twist the handle to the other side. There is a thread at the base of the die for this. Surprisingly the thread turned out to be a standard metric 16×1.25mm. The nut for it can be found at any hardware store, I found 3 of them in my garage. That’s because if you suddenly need to fix a sub or make some kind of device for it, it won’t be a problem. I want to mention here the removable handle, because it looks fragile to me. I have not yet had a chance to break it, but I have experience of using tools with handles made of similar material, and they break pretty easily when handled carelessly. I’m going back a little bit. Both grips are fixed on the aluminum body with hexagonal bolts. They don’t screw in, they just push in. They have a groove at the bottom, and it is in this groove that the bolt rests. By rotating the die around its axis, it can be locked in any position. The punch is one, in the body to which screwed one part of the eccentric mechanism (converting the rotational motion of the shaft in the translational punch), the second part is the shaft has on one end of the ledge (through which the punch is driven), and the other shank in the form of a hexagon 7 mm for connection to the drill. This is what it looks like disassembled: Let’s move on to direct application. The first thing is to grow a third hand, because you will hold the drill with one hand and the tool itself with the other. That is, you can not hold the workpiece. But if seriously, you need to understand and foresee the presence of a vice, clamps or a partner beforehand. I plan to operate the sabot permanently. Temporarily (for tests), from hand-made materials, built here is a device for mounting on a sheet of OSB thickness of 10 mm drill as recommended 3000 rpm (at least so written) fastened all this stuff on the plate view from the other side For tests took a steel strip of 1.5 mm (1.I’m sorry, I couldn’t find it. Aluminum plate. 2 mm, profiled sheeting. 0.45 mm, and some other stuff. You can see how it all works in the video at the end of the review, but in the meantime I’ll share my general impressions. Surprisingly, all of the above materials were cut quite easily, and most interestingly, the load on the drill is minimal even when cutting steel 1.5 mm, probably therefore, in the instruction, and there are no recommendations on power of the applied drill. I decided to use a cordless electric screwdriver instead of the drill, with an idle speed of 750 rpm (I can’t remember the power, but not more than 300 W). It cuts very slowly, but its power is enough. Be that as it may, but this option is not recommended at all. By experience the minimum cutting radius is about 10 mm. Regarding speed. The data sheet shows a cutting speed of 2m/min. But the depth of the shoulder on the punch is 0.5 mm, i.e. in one pass 0.5 mm of the material, which is confirmed by measurements of shavings. So in ideal conditions, if your drill is rated at 3,000 rpm (under a small, but still load), you can go a maximum of one minute with a chain saw.5 meters. Naturally, in practice, this distance will be even less. I made a measurement cutting steel thickness of 0.45 mm thick, the result was a speed of about 1.3 meters per minute. Very sorry that I did not have a piece of tile, because I wanted to test the tool to pass all of its curves, especially since many commercials position it just for cutting it. And what is most interesting is the passage of these most bends (many) present installation in the roller. I decided to make my tests on an aluminum profile with a wall thickness of 1mm.2 mm. On a material of such thickness, curves to pass quite difficult, but it’s still real (though not beautiful) curves on the profile to go quite easily, but again, with a good fixation of the sheet. I liked very much the cleanliness of the cut, no burrs, the edge is not sharp even on a sheet thickness of 0.45 mm. In many cases, post-processing is unnecessary if the manufacturing process does not require it. Examples of cutting can be seen in the micrometer photo, and add a few more photos below is especially felt the difference in comparison with the cut angle grinder abrasive wheel (I am aware that cutting metal with an abrasive wheel is not recommended. aluminum) and this is the shape of the chip is obtained at the output Below sketched the basic dimensions, maybe someone will be helpful. And the promised clip:
In summary I will say that even though the tool is specific, but no less useful. Personally, I was pleased with it (though I’m still open to the question of its life). In the near future I plan to use it to make similar blanks which are part of similar products That’s all. Thank you all for your attention. P.S, Coupon: Elec1
Item provided for writing the review by the store. The review is published in accordance with p.18 Site Rules.
Nozzle on the drill for cutting metal
Sheet metal has at its core metal, which is covered with several layers of protection for long life.
Layers of metal
Finished profile sheet metal is bent by cold pressure, alternately, first along, then across. There is no heating process, which can spoil the properties of the coatings. At the same time the quality of the material remains high, as it was originally conceived, wear resistance to 100 years, resistant to corrosion and UV. radiation and similar qualities. But in the process of laying these tiles, they sometimes need to be cut for a neat, high-quality installation, while not damaging the outer layers.
The manufacturer gives a guarantee on their product, while specifying what tools should be used in order not to lose this guarantee.
When cutting the sheet should be avoided damage to the protective lacquer layer as the appearance of cracks and thermal effects in the form of sparks, deformation of the material.
Therefore, the following tools are considered the most applicable: An ordinary hacksaw for metal, hand scissors for metal, a circular saw, an electric jigsaw with an attachment for cutting metal, electric cutters. These tools can cut through the metal tile, without damaging the outer layers.
I would like to note that the convenient and familiar to all angle grinder in this list is not included, as it is used with a diamond disc, which can lead to the destruction of the coating on the cutting edges.
The disk nozzle on the drill for cutting metal
When using such a nozzle, you need to remember that the disk itself must be only with teeth. The main disadvantages are that you can only work on a flat surface and securing the sheet for processing.
If you want to correct the sheet already on the roof, you can not do this. Second, the rubbers can only be straight, a semi-circle will be a problem. Much more convenient for this purpose the purchase of such an attachment as a cutter scissors.
Drill bits for metal cutting
Having a good drill in the household, with the help of accessories it can be made into a universal tool for all occasions. For example, such a process as cutting a piece of metal, even a small piece or strip, can turn into a whole problem. Of course, there are a large number of metal scissors from different companies, and they will cut. But the edges of the cut sheet must be bent, cutting an oval or other shape they can not. Angle grinder is also not suitable for this purpose, the cut will be large and you will have to remove burrs in the area of the cut. What to do to solve this problem, you can simply buy a nozzle on the drill for cutting metal at any construction store.
What is a nozzle on the drill for cutting metal
By design, it is such a gear that works on the principle of a matrix and punch and practically punches such a kind of punch that works with the matrix and punches holes due to the transition of rotational motions into oscillatory motions.
Drill bit for cutting metal unassembled
Works on the principle of a cutter. As they say. all ingenious is simple. Of course, this is not electric scissors, but if you do not engage in roofing work on a daily basis, it is a great option for the home workshop.
The work of the nozzle on the drill for metal cutting
Cutting width will be no more than 3 mm, the edges of the cut will remain without thermal effects, that is, the coating of the metal will not change its properties. The cutting itself will be carried out with the help of a chuck of the drill, on which the device is mounted. Of course, the drill should have a rpm not less than 2500 per minute.
The thickness of the metal to be cut should be within the following limits:
But, as well as to each tool, to work with this nozzle it is necessary to get used to.
Types of nozzles
All drill bits work on the same principle. The only difference is the thickness of the processed sheet. Even, burr-free cut after use. The only thing that may not allow cutting is the mismatch between the nozzle and the drill in terms of the revolutions applied. The most used nozzles by Russian craftsmen are “Cricket”, “Steel Beaver”, SPARKY, EDMA Nibblex.
The accessories are very versatile, their application is productive enough, the handle helps to control the cut of all accessories, the cut is of good quality, and it is possible to use both pneumatic and electric drills. They do not require any special adjustment, it is possible to perform shaped cuts, the main thing is the master’s personal skill.
The nozzle “Cricket”
This is a scissor head for your drill for cutting metal. They are special die-cutters, which can be used to cut both flat sheet and profiled sheet, as well as plastic and carbonate, which are also difficult to cut.
Cricket tool for cutting metal
When using this attachment on the drill for cutting profiled and sheet metal, you can cut plastic up to 2 mm thick, as well as stainless steel up to 1.2 mm. It can also be used for internal cutting, but it needs to be pre-drilled.
Very suitable for roofing work for cutting metal. No deformation occurs during cutting by the “cricket beaver”, so no sheet needs to be straightened. If you even need to cut a circle or other complex part for some purpose, this attachment is up to the task. The only thing required is the skill of the craftsman. Speed 1500- 2500 rpm,
The steel beaver attachment
It is equipped with an interchangeable die and poisson. Difference from the previous nozzle is that the thickness of sheet steel, which can cut this nozzle is 1.8 mm, and the speed of the used drill should be within 1500. 3000 rpm. Same as the previous one, made in Russia.
Steel Beaver Tool
EDMA NIBBLEX sheet metal cutting bit
An excellent attachment, high quality workmanship, a lot of positive feedback from both professionals and home craftsmen. On the technical characteristics: Drill speed of at least 3000 rpm, the thickness of cut sheet and sectional metal up to 1, 2 mm, aluminum (sheet) up to 1.5 mm.
EDMA Nibblex nozzle
Cutting scissors for a SPARKY drill
The most favorite device of our masters. Manufacturer country Bulgaria, is distinguished by both good quality and a reasonable price.
The price for such an attachment to the drill for cutting metal in the area of 2000 thousand. The main technical specifications include: operating speed for proper operation of the nozzle 3000 rpm, thickness of steel to be cut from 1.8 to 2 mm, at these parameters cutting speed of 2 m per minute.
Cutters for SPARKY drill
Of course, in these tools a very frequent changeable part is poisson. It is sold in the same stores as the nozzle itself. I want to note that very often there are remarks on the internet that a poisson for SPARKY costs 600 and a poisson for another attachment about 150, but both are made in China. Yes, in China. But the tools of world company BOSH are also mostly produced in China, but because of this their quality is still the highest (of course, if you do not run into a fake). The matter is in the applied technologies and quality acceptance. That’s why the miser pays twice.
Steel Beaver scissor cutter for metal (box)
Detailed advice about the method of delivery of your order you can get after ordering or by phone.
For your convenience we provide several ways of payment:
- AT COMPANY OUTLETS. For those near our retail stores.
- ONLINE BY PLASTIC CARD WITHOUT ANY COMMISSION. The operation is carried out by Sberbank of Russia.
Drill bit is designed for cutting flat and profiled sheets (metal tiles, profiled sheeting).
- Designed for cutting of sheet and profiled metal
- you can make a shaped cutout for the installation of external ventilation elements of the roof or gutter system
- does not burn the protective layer of the metal coating during cutting, does not cause sparks. ensures compliance with Grand Line warranty conditions
- Used in conjunction with any drill, fixed in its chuck
- cutting mechanism works similarly to punching shears (the punch makes frequent reciprocating motion, while bending the material and “breaks” it against a sharpened support part. matrix)
- Makes straight and curved cuts
- cuts horizontally and vertically
- self-adjusting, easy to use and maintain
- Metal cut is accurate, the edge of the cut is not deformed
- does not cause sparks, does not reduce the protective layer of the metal coating
- nozzle body (with 2 dies and a punch)
- combination wrench
- plastic handle
- metal box
- instruction for use
- Grand Line brand
- Changing the direction and angle of cut is 360°
- Min. cutting radius, mm 12
- Recommended power drill, Watt at least 420
- Recommended speed of the drill, rpm 1500-3000
- Brand Country Russia
Note! Color, specifications and accessories of products shown on the site may differ from the actual product
The poultry plucking nozzle with the poultry plucking drill
Plucking a bird is a very time consuming process, especially when several birds need to be plucked. That’s why many farmers were always looking for new solutions, not only to make their work easier, but also to reduce the total time. For this application, the feather-pulling attachment was specially designed to remove the feathers from the bird in a few minutes. It is similar to a dish-washing brush, only the bristles here are silicon fingers that pluck the feathers from the carcass as the shaft rotates. The poultry is brought in on either side.
The nozzle on the drill for plucking poultry, which can be bought for an average of 1500 treats bird carcasses for only 2-3 minutes without leaving a single feather. The result is smooth and undamaged skin. Not only is the device efficient for chicken plucking, but it also gives good results for geese. The drill bit can be used not only for fresh poultry, but also for frozen poultry.
Useful hint! It is not recommended to scald the bird with boiling water before using the head, which will reduce the efficiency of treatment.
Best Power Tool Attachment? REXBETI Metal Nibbler Drill or Impact Attachment
The main advantages of the feathering nozzle on the drill, which you can buy in any specialized store, is fast, easy and mobile use, which does not require certain skills and additional treatment of the carcass before plucking. A significant disadvantage of the device is that after this mechanical process damage remains on the carcass, which deteriorates its appearance. Therefore in the case of birds for sale the carcass should be plucked by hand.
Designs and principle of their work
The principle of attachments used for metal cutting is to convert the rotational motion of the electric motor shaft into the translational motion of the cutting mechanism.
Metal cutting drill bits are fastened in the chuck and actuated by means of the start button (key) of the tool in use.
When using metal cutting attachments the rotational speed of your drill (screwdriver) must be at least 1 500 rpm, otherwise the quality of the cut is reduced and the material being cut may get jammed.
In devices such as “Cricket” and “Steel Beaver” operation of the cutting mechanism is similar to the principle of the office perforator: when a thin bead pierces holes of small diameter along the entire length of the cut surface. Progressive movement along the mowing line of the cut is given by the human force.
In the jigsaw head the cutting blade moves back and forth while the effort at the place of cut is exerted by the operator.
The principle of operation of “scissors” type attachments is similar to that of simple scissors, the only difference being that in attachments one of the cutting blades can be rigidly fixed, and only the second one is movable.
- Body. which is the basis of the design, which houses the cutting parts and the mechanism for converting the rotational motion into translational (gearbox);
- Cutting elements. blade, bit or blades;
- Shank. which is the connecting element between the gear and the chuck of the drill (screwdriver);
- nodes and components ensuring convenient operation (handles) and secure fastening (fastening elements). They may be different for different devices, or absent altogether.
Steel beaver or cricket nozzle. Buy the nozzle on the drill, for cutting metal tiles and corrugated sheeting.
Steel Beaver cutter head is designed for cutting metal tiles, profiled sheeting and smooth sheet. The shovel head cuts the metal while cutting, which prevents heat and sparks. So it does not burn the zinc, the protective layer, like an angle grinder. This is the most important rule for cutting thin sheet, galvanized products. Unfortunately, this is the rule that is violated more often during the assembling.