Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut
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We collected 23 negative, negative and positive reviews from 11 sources.
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performance (see reviews on the Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut). Specifications).
Do not expose the machine to rain.
Do not use the machine in damp or wet areas. Avoid contact with earthed objects, such as radiators, pipes, stoves, refrigerators, etc.
Do not use the mains cable for anything other than its intended use.
Do not switch the machine on without the protective devices installed.
Always keep a sufficient distance to the rotating saw blade. If necessary, use suitable devices to feed the workpieces. Keep a sufficient distance to moving machine parts during operation.
Remove sawing residue, wood residue, etc. from the sawing area before sawing. п. Wait until the machine has come to a complete standstill.
Only use workpieces of a size that can be held securely in the sawing process.
Do not stop the saw blade when it is stopped by pressing on the side of the saw blade.
Make sure that the machine is disconnected from the mains before carrying out maintenance work.
Make sure that no tools or loose parts are left in the machine when it is switched on (e.g. after maintenance work).
Pull the plug out of the mains socket when you are not working.
Change circular saw blades while wearing gloves.
Store saw blades in an environment that prevents injury to others.
Danger of kickback (blades jamming in the workpiece and sudden ejection)
Make sure that the circular sawblade you use is suitable for the material to be sawn.
Hold the handle of the circular saw firmly. The greatest danger of kickback occurs when the saw blade plunges into the workpiece.
Only use fine-toothed circular saw blades for cutting thin workpieces or thin-walled workpieces.
Only use sharp circular saw blades. Immediately replace dull saw blades. The possibility of the blunt teeth of the saw blade jamming in the material of the workpiece increases the risk of kickback.
Avoid sideways pressure on the saw blade when cornering. use the clamping aid.
When in doubt, check workpieces for foreign objects (e.g. nails or screws).
Never saw several workpieces at the same time (e.g. large diameter workpieces). ч. Danger of accidents caused by uncontrolled trapping of individual workpieces by the circular saw blade.
Danger of being caught by moving parts!
Make sure you do not touch your body parts or items of clothing which are being pulled in or caught by the rotating parts of the machine (do not wear a necktie, gloves, wide-sleeved clothing; cover your hair with a net if you have long hair).
Never machine workpieces with clamped arms. danger of accident due to uncontrolled grip of the saw blade
Use wire or other similar materials to check workpieces.
Danger due to inadequate personal protective measures!
Wear hearing protection.
Danger from wood dust!
Some types of wood dust (especially oak, beech, ash) are carcinogenic. This dust can be dangerous to your health if inhaled. Work only with a suction system that complies with the specifications in the Technical Data.
When working on the machine, make sure that as little wood dust as possible enters the environment:.)
Remove deposits of wood dust from the work area (not by blowing!),
Eliminate any leaks in the dust extraction system,
Danger due to structural modifications or the use of unapproved
Installation of the machine must be carried out according to these instructions.
Use only components and parts approved by the manufacturer. This condition applies in particular to.
Saw blades (order numbers listed in the Specifications section),
Protective devices (refer to the spare parts list for ordering numbers).
Do not make any structural alterations to the subassemblies/parts.
Danger due to machine malfunction!
Carefully take care of the machine and its ancillary equipment. Follow the maintenance instructions.
Before each use, check the machine for damage. Before switching on the machine, check that the safety devices/safety devices and any slightly damaged parts are working properly and that they perform their intended function. Also check that all moving parts are in good condition and free from blockages. All parts must be correctly assembled. They must meet all requirements for the proper and safe operation of the machine.
Do not use damaged or deformed circular saw blades.
Damaged guards or other parts must be repaired or replaced by an authorized service center
Take care of the workshop. Have damaged breakers replaced by a certified repair shop. Do not operate the machine if the switch is damaged and does not turn it on and off reliably.
Keep hands and controls dry and free of oil and grease.
Make sure that the saw blade is not deformed. A warped saw blade causes strong vibrations and thus a higher noise level.
Danger from laser radiation!
Exposure to laser radiation can cause severe visual impairment. Avoid direct eye contact with the laser beam. Never look into the exit point of the laser light.
How to set the Metabo kgs 216 crosscut saw
I had the necessity to saw the aluminum profile Aristo of stilage system under 45, and even under 90 degrees. If with the latter I can do quite handy with a jigsaw (yes, yes, jigsaw hands), then the 45 neither a jigsaw nor a chisel is ideal for various reasons.
Chisel changed my mind to buy sophisticated tool after the reviews and the price of Enkor Corvette-8M. In the end, it was a problem to find an inexpensive model of small size, so you can place it in an apartment. And after studying a lot of information, it turned out that for such purposes and the price tag of 10K, and even 15K does not guarantee the result. And to take a sure thing for 20-30K at one time, it is not like your budget.
If the theme was familiar to fans, many eventually came to Jet-am, Corvettes and other trimmers, and of course Metabo KS 216 M LaserCut,
After reading the information on various forums, the impression is mixed 50-50. And the most detailed information that I came across, dated 2011. And a lot can change since then, including the quality of production.
So I took it yesterday, and I will try to solve my problem. If the topic is interesting, let me know, I will try to solve the problem.
I’m basing this on the hope that for 5K you can get a cutter from a more or less brand, with a laser, and the ability to set it up once, t.к. it is not necessary to carry anywhere home. For professionals, imho, it’s still not an option. Nevertheless, the purpose of the topic quality at the output.
In the meantime, the first results of examination and testing (admittedly with the native disc, while on the wood) those who came from the box got 45 degrees, or poorly measured, or statistically hit somewhere in 1/5 probably. In general it is possible to get 45 out of the box, but there are doubts that the 4 bolts, which set the stop for the workpiece, in most cases are screwed at the factory as it should be:
my error was a degree and a half. I must point out right away that the angle is specially encor’s and so on.п. Immediately I have to say that this is a normal home user. After adjusting it was almost fixed to the native 45, but it does not come to the stop lugs, anyway the stock is over:
I’ll leave it that way for now, and tomorrow I’ll see how the sawing goes:
It seems to be more accurate when measuring on both sides. For now, we are assuming that the disc is parallel to the slot. By eye and ruler, it’s like this.
Another thing about my copy is that everything is rigid, nothing is playful. Except for the cutting wheel itself, t.е. It doesn’t change position, but you can rock it left and right relative to the rest of the bed. A little bit, but you can. Among the reviews I found this. I am not the first.
I don’t plan to tighten the screw from the bottom yet.к. there was some feedback that it is flimsy (although apparently now it has been replaced by a bolt and is not part of the cast). I hope it won’t affect the result, but in theory it could take away a fraction of a degree in the perpendicular. While I estimate that the workpiece is pressed to the disk and to the rest of the bed will not give this motion, and so it is if you make a special effort. If anyone has encountered in copies of recent production and corrected, write, I will tighten immediately.
About the laser. If you press the angle against the corrected stop, the beam will rest perfectly on the middle line on the encor angle. Т.е. well out of the box. I thought I’d have to bother with its, as many people write, inconvenient setting.
One thing I don’t understand is that the laser illuminates the bar on the workpiece to the left of the disk, in the place where the material stays, and to the right of the bar the saw starts. So whether? Т.е. The useful part of the workpiece is more correctly fed from the left?
Altruist2 wrote : T.е. it would be better to feed the useful part of the workpiece to the left?
Yes.hold the workpiece with your left hand or use a clamp to hold it in place. Your right hand rests on the handle and turns the saw while you cut.True, if you are right handed. It is more convenient.
Yes, I wonder if you share your impressions, as far as the angle evenly and without bumps cuts (on wood I wonder first of all)
The first works are done. So a couple of corrections:
- About the play of the round part of the base along with the whole jig (t.е. regarding facing it does not exist, once again I clarify). Canceled. It is only there if the handle is not twisted, at 45 it is not there at all. Apparently the recesses at standard degrees give the grip.
- Laser. Fairy tale, here’s on the wood after cutting with the native disk:
With the disk for aluminum/plastic (Ataka z60) the laser needs to be readjusted, t.к. the disk is thinner. If I do not reset it, there is still about 1mm left on the right side of the laser after the saw. I left it like this.
Barmolei. I can’t say anything about burrs, t.к. The native disc is 40k toothed, and although it says precision cut, in practice everyone wrote about it that it’s not good for clean cutting. I was cutting something like a wide pine glazing bead (3cm), it is covered with paint and several layers of varnish, and soft in principle not bad, t.к. dried up a lot, but cm. below.
Trimmer has an annoying feature to undercut the furthest corner by about half a millimeter. It’s the same with the native disk on wood as with the Ataka one on aluminum. This could be solved in two ways, or the stop should be set closer to the operator (not sure that there are any “0” free positions) and the stop should be set in a position that makes it easier to work.5mm, when fine tuning), or put something between the stop and the workpiece. I did not have much trouble with sawing the profile 3048, dumbly dolamoval and file, until I decided to address this issue. Again, this feature, I read on the network, and it was not a surprise.
Mm-hmm. And what do you think about the 45-degree flaws?? In most reviews this is the most unpleasant moment, as they say it is impossible to assemble the frame normally and when installing the door, the defect is visible? I mean the 45 and the head and the turntable.
On the setting of the angle. After the first unsuccessful settings (the error was a decent 0.5 degrees, which on the frame had already saved up 2), and already replaced the disk on the one for which I took the facing tool, I decided to fine tune it. And then I realized that it is logical to do so:
The fact that the tab with the slot is not flush with the bed disk. Somewhere in the commentaries on the crosscut saw I’ve even read that a man considered this as a disadvantage and changed it for his own hardwood, having sawn through on the spot. I really don’t know why. But in the case of an angle of this type as in the photo, it is not flush just gives the thickness of the metal angle, and it fits and fits perfectly under the stop Surely the Chinese were counting on it before I just did not think to try to get the angle into the gap under the bed turns out to fit.
And oh, my goodness, after another readjustment of the stop, and using the native 45 degree marker (before that, I set the marks near 45 degrees, because of the lack of stop travel), I did get a good angle. The funny thing is that it matched the laser. I’m not sure, but the saw blade might not be perfectly parallel with the slot, but the laser seems to be factory-set to fit the blade. Maybe according to some kind of template.з. Once again, I’m glad I didn’t have to go to any trouble with the laser.
I cut the 90 degree angle later without changing any settings ok.
What’s on the output. Here’s an example of 3 profiles sawed with a trimmer, a jigsaw (Makita 4329K with a thick Bosch Alu saw, divorced) and a jigsaw (a plastic penny, but a Bahco 18 blade):
In the picture and you can not tell where someone is? In reality, even a jigsaw good cut, though not along the bar (with the bar will take away at this thickness 90%). This mitre saw with the Ataka Z60 is also great, fits like butter and the edge is perfect.
The first results of cutting 4 vertical Aristo profiles, 2200mm. Already with nozzles on one side. Well, 4 more sawed horizontal taps into the wall.
At such lengths, and with a tape measure of the second class accuracy, I think the error in the length of 1 mm is acceptable, especially as in this system of profiles, it is about nothing at all. The reason for the error, as you can guess, is the laser, which I did not reconfigure to a thinner non-standard disk. I sawed by the exact marking but with the laser clearance by eye.
My review of the Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut crosscut saw
The mitre saw comes in a cardboard box not small. In addition to the saw with a set saw blade and two table extensions, the package also includes a bag for collecting sawdust, a clamp for fixing the workpiece, a hexagon to change the saw blade and a manual.
Max depth of kerf at angle of 90°, 60 mm
Max cutting depth at 45° angle, 45 mm
Max kerf width at 90°, 120 mm
Appearance, build quality and ease of use
The facade of the mitre saw, which follows the Metabo style, looks good at first glance. But closer inspection reveals some workmanship flaws. Overall the plastic, buttons and switches are of good quality and work well. But there are some questions about the metal design elements, but it would be more correct to say that these are still cosmetic defects that do not affect the performance of the tool.
The guard, for example, has some defects caused by rough work and leaves much to be desired in the paintwork. In some places it is already peeling off even before use. Face saw frame is processed better and painted better. These parts seem to be produced in different works. But the stickers on the base with a crossed out hand peeled off after the first day of work.
Setting up the saw in the factory is a separate topic. The turn marks and tilt marks were just bolted on, as they say, “as they happened” and not adjusted, I had to adjust them myself. The laser was going up and did not line up with the cutting line, but it was easy enough to adjust. When you buy a saw of a brand like Metabo you think, “I’ll just take it out of the box and start working”, but it turns out not to be true. Setting up first, working later. Good news is that the base and fence surfaces are flat and do not require reworking.
The power of 1100 watts is enough. A standard saw blade cuts evenly and the cut is clean. On small workpieces it tears off part of the material at the output. It is only good for wood. It blunts very quickly on laminate and starts to smoke. After setting the angle and tilt pointers and adjusting the parallel stop, all angles are aligned.
There is also a fixation of rotation of the frame in the main corners. There are rubber pads on the legs of the saw so it doesn’t wobble on the table when you work and you don’t have to attach it to the table. LED illumination and laser ruler add convenience.
Four holes on the base, two on each side, for mounting a complete clamping base that can be used to clamp the workpiece at different angles and tilts of the saw. Easy to use. The only problem is that in some positions, you have to move the bolt that secures the two parts of the clamp from one side to the other, because this bolt rests on the legs of the bed.
Extension table arms that can be bolted down when unfolded are also a plus. Right reamer has retractable stop that helps when sawing multiple parts of the same size. Another interesting thing about these reamers is that if you remove them unfold and insert one into the other, their height becomes equal to the height of the table and the reamer can be used as a stand for a long workpiece.
The cable is of average quality. it almost does not freeze. The length is not long, but it is enough in principle. As a bonus on the cable there is a plastic clip that when you wind the cable on the handle of the saw fixes the end of the cable to the previous coil. Due to which the cable does not unravel when storing and moving the saw. Due to the relatively small size and weight of only about 10 kg it is easy to carry the saw in the folded position, holding it by the handle.
The main disadvantages relate to the quality of workmanship. As it was already said above the quality of workmanship of some details and the painting leave much to be desired. Another big disadvantage is that the angles are set in the factory. You overpay for the brand, but you get a quality setup like cheap China.
If it were not for the faults in workmanship and settings, I would have only positive impressions from my purchase of this saw. All in all this saw is comfortable to work with and copes with its task perfectly. If you are not afraid of the need for adjustment, then this mitre saw is safe to take. But when buying you need to inspect the saw as there is a defect.
Review: Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut mitre saw. Because laser, because it can!
A warm welcome to all, dear friends, reviewers!
And today we will talk about the gorgeous and striking, elegant and charming crosscut saw Metabo KS 216 M LaserCut. Or as I call it Metatron. (Because the laser).
A crosscut saw comes in handy whenever building work begins and progresses. It has been through nearly every phase of construction, but I can’t say that it comes in handy everywhere.Saw a 150×150 beam with a chain saw, a 50×150 board with a manual circular saw.
And here is the exact work on the assembly of the crate, the finishing floor, parquet, sawing the stairs, as well as sawing at an angle and slanted skirting boards and foam plastic baguettes (yes, even sawing foam plastic).
Of course It is difficult to describe this product in technical terms, especially since there is a manual for that, I will try to touch on the main aspects of this mitre saw.
This saw has a pivoting table with a ruler on which the electric drive with the saw blade is positioned vertically. The table has lateral legs that can be used to lay the material to be sawn.
Underneath the table, there are diagonally arranged support legs. They are not big, of course the device is stable, but they are not horizontal or floor level. That is the table is short (small) and putting a large material on the table, part of the material hangs down. Very uncomfortable. But, I put the plates on the level of the table.
In turn, the table has a longitudinal ruler. Also, the table has a pivoting angular protractor, which has a kind of lock (you can feel some effort to stop) on multiples. For example at 0,30,45,60 and 90 degrees.
That way we can easily cut at an angle with the table turning.
Moving up from the table to the trimmer’s stand we will see the swiveling clamping mechanism.
To use the tilt mechanism, which is located at the back of the stand, it is necessary to take the swivel wrench that is included in the kit.
By tilting the table we can adjust the inclination of the saw blade from the vertical to 45 degrees to the left and right side.
This way we get an angled cut.
That is why it is worth buying a mitre saw, actually. Because thanks to it you can make nice and even joints in the corners. And regardless of the material: it can be wood, plastic and Styrofoam. And, if you install the diamond disc, you can safely saw the floor tiles (this will be for me).
On the stand itself there is a high-speed electric motor with a disc. The disk itself is protected by a metal cover. On the motor housing there is a knob with two buttons.
The electric motor with the logo and the specifications.
I became acquainted with these buttons at once, but got used to them only after some time.
As it turned out, one of the buttons is a starter and turns on the electric motor. The second button performs the unlocking of the swivel mechanism of the lowering of the saw.
However, probably a long time ago everyone knows and all have become accustomed to the fact that usually on dangerous power tools there are two buttons, but with a different purpose, namely: One controlling safety button, which removes the start lock of the electric motor (such as angle grinder or circular grinder), and the second button starts the motor itself.
So normally you have to press two buttons to start the tool.
This is not the case here! That’s how I got to know it.
This is actually what really bothers me.
At the back of the stand you can install a dust canister, which is included. I can’t say it’s very effective, though, because if I’m sawing planks, everything flies around.
As I said this machine has several measuring tools to perform a smooth and accurate cut. But apart from that, the crowning plus is the backlight and the laser marker, which shines on the cutting table and indicates where the sawing line will pass.
To my regret, this laser line stopped shining after literally a year of use. In fact, it is very frustrating, because with it (with the laser marker) sawing is much more convenient. And now I saw in two steps: in the first step I just put the blade down to try on where the saw blade will go, and in the second step I already start the electric motor and saw.
The advantages of the machine: Versatility. You can work with it from the beginning of the construction until the end. Sawing from rough boards, to parquet and baguette. Different swivel cutting angles, and the “trinket and trump card” slanted cutting angles. There is a dust collector. There is a laser marker line.
Disadvantages:- Sawtooth lights fail quickly. That’s frustrating.- No lock on the motor start. Don’t like that there is no test safe button.- If you saw at an angle, you can cut the ruler. So you have to watch where the sawing line goes, and not “saw the saw”.
What can I say, in fact, looking back, I probably would have rented this tool when I needed. Anyway, it’s more idle than it is working.
So as a conclusion. a good thing, but if you have a neighbor. then you can not go broke and for something good to borrow. Or rent, for example in Petrovich now a lot of tools can be found and rented.
Actually in the store 220 Volt you could buy this saw for 10,399, for precision work with small parts and materials. Definitely works. For rough work it is better to use something else, it would be a pity.
At first I used a knife to cut the skirting boards. I read on the internet “masters of wonders” who advised to use a penknife to cut at an angle.
Cutting at an angle is half the trouble, you also have to cut at an angle! It is difficult to do without such a miracle machine. And here it comes in very handy, zap and done.
Example of work. the bypass box, the inner and outer corners.
So, having at hand this unit you can make the final stages of building a house. It is definitely easier to do it with this machine than without it. But whether or not to buy it for small jobs is up to you.
Review: Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut coping saw. Rarely is a cheap thing so happy.
Do you like wood as much as I do?? If so, this review of the Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut socket saw may be helpful to you. If you are a professional in the field of woodworking, then you can just laugh at the review of an amateur amateur. It is more familiar to the ear when it is called a “trimmer”, but our manual says exactly “trimmer”.
So, I love wood. I love not only to use wooden products, but also to make them. When making my own crafts, I always used a hand saw. After all, I have nowhere to hurry, I can saw, enjoy the process, enjoy the wonderful smell of wood. But it turned out that a hand saw is not only more time-consuming. It turns out it is impossible to saw perfectly matched joints with hands. I needed smooth joints when we decided to take in a big dog from the shelter this spring, and I started building a kennel for him. It became clear that a socket saw was needed. A friend lent us the saw for a short while to build a cabin. It was a huge powerful and very expensive machine. The kennel was quickly built, the settled dog approved, the saw was returned to the owner, and my husband and I had a dream of such an end saw. But the price of such powerful machines is very frightening. And on the site of the store “Enthusiast” we found the cheapest socket saw “Metabo” KS 216 M Lasercut.
But it cost us the purchase for only 10500. Today it is even cheaper and costs 10 thousand. Ordered the saw, and a few days later it was delivered to the store “Enthusiast” in our town, which is located in the mall “Watermelon”.
Compared to the one we were using, making a booth, this saw:
While using our saw, I sawed a few pieces for crafts, and my husband made a steam room in the bath (the shelf and floors are made of solid wood, the walls are made of bentwood) and the fence of the garden from the dog.
In order to cut the same wood with these two saws of different capacities, I had to apply exactly the same force. Both cut the same. So, I do not see the point in more power for more money. Both also roar equally loud and nasty.
The size of the wheel is a very important parameter. No, not even the size of the circle, but the size of the groove in the table where the circle fits. Our saw only fully saws the workpieces width of 120 mm, although the groove in the table, where the saw blade enters 160 mm, and the diameter of the blade is 216 mm. And if you turn the board over and finish it from the other side, it turns out with a flaw. It is very difficult to cut both sides equally precisely to within a hundredth of a millimeter. Metabo has a similar model KGS 216 with the possibility of increasing the size of the table groove and the ability to cut workpieces up to 305 mm wide. But this model is almost twice as expensive as ours.
Small size is great! We don’t have enough space in our garage to find room for a huge machine. The feet on our saw are half the size of the saw we borrowed from a friend. But it is just as stable, does not run anywhere during work. Our saw is also lightweight and easy to carry in the sauna, garage, car and many other places.
So, some disadvantages even turned to a plus.
The Metabo mitre saw can make longitudinal, cross, bevel and diagonal cuts, as well as double bevel cuts (the last one is probably the best, I haven’t tried it).
It can cut wood, chipboard, laminate, synthetic materials and aluminum profile. Metabo offers different saw blades for different materials.
But cutting blanks with round (like firewood) or uneven cross-section is not allowed, as it is not ensured reliable holding them during the sawing, which is very dangerous. And I have already had the “happiness” that is stupid to make sure of it. I wanted to cut along a small and narrow bar, about 4 cm, that I couldn’t hold with my hands. It cracked and shattered, good thing it wasn’t in the eye.
The splinter flew off so fast that it broke the metal ruler. And to hold the workpiece even tighter for better safety and more accurate cuts there is even a special tightening device. It’s not for nothing that practically the entire manual is one safety technique. A few pages of warning triangles.
And there is very little information about how to make cuts at different angles and bevels, at least the pictures are understandable.
The bevel saw. Unscrew fixing handle and turn the working table for as many degrees as you need from 0 to 45 (turns both left and right relative to zero):
Inclined incision. Unscrew the tilt locking lever and tilt the saw blade itself as many degrees as you need from 0 to 45 (that’s just one way):
The main thing is not to forget to push back that billet stop:
Otherwise, the circle will go over it. As you see, it is much harder for the ladies to guess. I forgot to take it off and immediately snapped it off and that’s the end of it, it doesn’t make it difficult to make inclined cuts any more. In the same photo you can see the broken off ruler.
In general, either this is the cheapest saw is of very low quality, or it’s my personal not friends with this technique that I’m already so screwed up. My husband is shocked.
Who knows if these elements are fragile in more expensive saws, let me know in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев.
Angles were checked with a protractor. They’re straight, they’re precise. As much as you put it out, so much you get.
The cut-off saw is equipped with a bag for chip collection. This thing is absolutely useless, chips and dust fly everywhere and only small part of them gets into the bag.
And when this wood dust gets inside the machine, the cutting laser stops working. Sometimes after cleaning it works again. But not today, when I decided to write this review. I’ve wiped it both ways, but alas. This is the only particular disadvantage that is missing from an expensive other brand of saw that we borrowed from a comrade. It had no problem with the laser, no matter how much dust and swarf gets around. And the more expensive models of the same brand Metabo, e.g. the already mentioned KGS 216 has the same problem with the laser, as you can see from reviews on this site.
And finally, one more thing nice. When buying a saw “Enthusiast” with Metabo gave us two brand beer mugs and three vodka shot glasses.
The saw is in China, but the shot glasses are made in Germany.)
Of course, I recommend you look at this model. What other socket saw, which cuts well and evenly, though of small workpiece width, can you find for such a price??
This is the second time people wanted to see what I was doing.
This is my eldest son asked for an easel. And they’re expensive at artist stores. Well I did not think long and made it myself. It is folding. And the board for the clipboard moves to the right height.
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Metabo KS 216 M LASERCUT 619216000
Metabo KS 216 M LaserCut (619216000)
German brand Metabo is famous for its balanced price-quality ratio of its products. Saw machine KS 216 M Lasercut 619216000 costs about € 125, while combining the qualities of more expensive models of competitive brands.
Lightweight and mobile
Weight of the construction without clamps and table extensions is only 9.4 kg. less cutting depth and width at 45mm and 80mm respectively in a tilted position, thanks to the compact dimensions of 475x465x285mm and the platform made of aluminium alloy. Convenient top handle allows you to easily move the machine from place to place.
Functional and convenient
The model uses a 216 mm saw blade with a maximum cutting depth of 60 mm at right angles and a width of 120 mm. Sawing head swivels up to 47º and has the same angle to the left. Cutting depth and width at an angle of 45 mm and 80 mm are smaller, respectively. Laser marker and LED backlight for exact mowing line indication.
For work with long objects: panels, slats, etc.e convenient to use table extensions. They are detachable and are included in the set. The clamp securely holds the workpiece at the top or side. Scale marking and other markings are carved into the metal, so they are clearly visible and do not fade with time.
Safe and easy to maintain
Dust and chip evacuation for clean and safe operation. all garbage is collected in a cloth bag that can be easily removed and cleaned. Industrial vacuum cleaner can be connected to the system if desired. Spindle lock allows easy saw blade replacement without having to remove the guard.
Considerable output despite low power consumption of 1350 W. With a rated speed of 3,450 rpm, the blade travel speed is up to 57 m/s.
The Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut 619216000 is supplied with everything you need for full functionality. just mount the saw and plug it in. For its money the machine easily works at low loads for several years. Good value for money choice for wood and fiberboard work.
Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut mitre saw
Looking for positive and negative reviews of the Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut crosscut saw?
From 11 sources, we collected 73 negative, negative and positive reviews.
We show all the pros and cons of the Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut mitre saw revealed by users. We do not hide anything and we post all positive and negative honest customer reviews about Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut Trim Saw, as well as offer alternative products similar. Is it worth it to buy. The decision is yours!