Using the clip dies
The die consists of a body. There are 4 cutters fixed in special sockets. A cover is mounted on the body and screwed on. You get a closed cutting head. The tool has a shank whose length provides for centering the tool on the pipe. The shank has slots to allow rotation of the head with a ratchet or a gas wrench.
Threading pipe with a crescent cutter is done in the following way
- The pipe is fixed in the clamp;
- The die is inserted into the holder, the edge of the pipe is inserted into the guide;
- lubricate the thread-cutting point with technical oil;
- turn the cutting head.
Periodically turning the clincher counterclockwise to remove swarf. Use this way. three turns forward, one backward. The clupp is a handy tool for threading water pipes with your own hands.
Thread the pipe with a pipe cutter or a crescent.
For threading a pipe with a diameter of 15 (aka 1/2″, aka half an inch), I usually use a pipe lerk in a tool holder, which I put on the prepared cut of the pipe, the side that has a face, due to its length it serves as a guide, which is important for even hooking the pipe lerk. I press a little bit to the end by hand and turn the facets with the adjustable wrench, clockwise
It is not always possible to use the guiding side, it happens due to the fact that the cut pipe for whatever reason, made very close to the tie-in riser, then you do the approach with a lerk. In this case, you need to be more careful, keep the lance perpendicular to the axis of the pipe, otherwise the thread can go crooked and on the fourth coil will sell through the pipe. Actually if you have chamfered the whole diameter evenly then the approach will be even, and consequently the whole thread.
You can also cut a thread with a clevis, but usually the pipe of this diameter is used for distribution and it is not possible to use a screwdriver because of its massiveness.
On the pipe diameter of 20 (aka 3/4″, aka three-quarter inch), threading clincher, though just in case I have a three-quarter lerk in the lerko holder. For the same reasons as in the paragraph above.
And pipes of diameter 25 (aka 1″, aka inch) and diameter 32 (aka 1 1/4″. a.k.a. one and a quarter inch), I only thread with clubs with a ratchet. It is connected only with the labor intensity of this work. Using clips the process is much simpler, easier and faster.
In the photo, in addition to lever and tongs with a screwdriver, presented that I use to tighten the threaded joint, namely, universal, sanitary sealant and sanitary towel. After I cut the thread, I put sealant on it, trying to distribute evenly over all the coils, and after that wind up the linen, in detail about this I tell (and show) in another article, I leave the link below.
Connections can be more than just threaded.
In my profession has to connect the polypropylene with cast iron, when installing sewage. Basically, this connection is made through the transition rubber sleeve that blotted with sealant put into the bell of cast iron pipe or fitting, and already in it you insert the fitting blotted with sealant or a pipe made of polypropylene. This makes the connection airtight.
The photo shows the kabolka, different in thickness, it is also used in the installation of sewers, by tamping into the gap between the materials described above. It is convenient to use a bobbin, because it can be undone and the strand of desired thickness can be selected. It is useful when the transition sleeve is not the right size, such cases are not frequent, but they do occur.
Perhaps these articles will be helpful to you:How to thread a pipe. 10 important nuancesHow to wind the thread tightly How easy is it to cut an angle grinder
If you have any questions or additions, write in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев section. That’s all for today, good luck in your work, Regards Andrew.
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How to Thread Pipe; A Beginner’s Tutorial
Available in various modifications, it all depends on the manufacturer. However, the essence of all machines is the same. they are used to thread on an industrial scale. The advantages include:
There is a function of programming the parameters of the diameter and pitch with automatic reversal.
The threaded connection is indispensable when it is necessary to install a shut-off valve, transition tee or coupling to a metal pipe. Very often the joints fall into disrepair and have to be redone. The thread is characterized by:
Depending on the profile and pitch, a distinction is made between threads:
- Thumbnail. Has a triangular shape. Gets its name from the unit in which the outside diameter is measured. It is used in the assembly of plumbing and heating parts. Conventionally distinguished between pipe and fastener threads. The second has a larger pitch for better fixation.
- Tapered. The main application of this type is that the connection is obtained hermetically without the use of various sealing materials.
- Cylindrical. This is a variation of an inch thread with a finer pitch. The upper edge of the profile is smoothed and resembles a part of a cylinder. Usually, the thread pitch is the same as the inch pitch of the matching parts.
- Trapezoidal. It has an apex angle of 30°. Most often used in bolted joints to give greater reliability in fixing. Threads whose sides of the coil resemble an inosceles trapezoid are called thrust.
- Rectangular. Used for the same purposes as the previous type.
According to the location of the threads are distinguished:
Each of these types requires an individual approach and is designed for a specific purpose.
How to cut?
When all the tools are ready, you can thread a pipe, such as a heating system. It should be noted that it is not necessary to have any special skills to perform this type of work. everything can be done with your own hands.
First of all, you need to learn the process itself, guided by the following rule: threading on pipes must be carried out in a certain sequence, otherwise you can not avoid the consumption of raw materials and equipment breakdown.
Before cutting, the pipe must be inspected for old paint, corrosion and encrustation and then treated by carefully cleaning the surface with special tools, e.g. a grinder. It’s a good idea to chamfer the pipe beforehand to get a better thread fit. If the cut is made with a pipe cutter, then the edges of the cut shall be even, without serrations. If you do it with a hacksaw or angle grinder, it is necessary to grind them to metal with a file. it will considerably improve the connection. Before and after threading, you need to lubricate the cutters and pipe surface with a special compound.
Slots of required calibre are inserted into the clip frame with clamping screws. Then the tongs are put on the prepared pipe surface and a couple of starting coils are made in the threading direction. Only after this clamping is complete are the threads cut.
Then the ratchet switch is adjusted and clockwise rotation to the right (in the direction of the thread) begins. No special forces are needed. To ensure good chip removal, work using the following rotation range: two turns forward, one-half turn backward. In order to avoid misalignment it is necessary to strictly observe the correct position of the die in relation to the pipe.
Check the quality of the threads can be checked with the nut, screwing it on the pipe.
After completing the work, you should prepare the thread before installation of sealant, foaming tape or linen thread.
Tips for tapping
Before threading pipes, you need to determine the size, pitch, and standard used. If the notch is applied to the part, which should fit the existing product, the easiest way to look for the marking, it should be next to the finished thread.
If there is no marking, measure the thread with a caliper or a special set with templates. To determine the pitch of the notch, you must measure 10 turns of thread and divide the resulting length by 10. Select threading tools according to the diameter of the pipe and the thread pitch of the existing part.
The producers assemble their clips mainly from high quality tool steels. This solution makes it possible to obtain a product of high durability, the picks of which are able to work for a long time and do not deform under external loads and other influences. the material is additionally treated with special compounds that prevent rust and extend the service life of the clincher.
The klupp is a simplified version of the die, the construction of which does not contain expensive elements, due to which the product is considered affordable for home use.
Efficient cutting of pipes is ensured by durable cutters and tool holders.
The scheme of threading with tongs is as follows.
First, the surface to be processed is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and decorative or protective coatings. For this use an emery or a grinder, if you have one handy.
Then the tube is fixed in a certain position by a vice, thus ensuring the immobility of the element.
The third stage involves the lubrication of the surface with oil to reduce friction and increase the service life of the tool.
After installing the cutting parts and through a slight pressure on the levers begin to twist the tool in a clockwise direction, achieving a quality cut.
The work must be accompanied by smooth movements. Any jerks will cause the tool to change position, which will significantly reduce the quality of the thread. After the work is complete, unscrew the bolts and remove the accessories.
Main types and their differences
The metric profile differs from the pipe thread in the shape of the thread ridges and troughs.
- The basis of a metric thread is a triangle with equal sides. That is why all angular dimensions are identical at 60 degrees. For pipe inch sections, the angle dimensions are 55 degrees.
- Metric is measured in mm, pipe in inches.
- When threading a pipe profile, the wall thickness of the pipe section is taken into account.
- Threads with metric profile are marked with “M”, the range is from 1.0 mm to 600 mm
- Metric thread pitch 0.075 to 3.5 mm. Minimal thread pitch is used in measuring devices, medium pitch is used in parts and units operated in the zone of high vibration.
Large metric threads are used for heavy load-bearing structures.
How to use it properly?
The threading tongs work according to the same principle as the die. Rules for use are simple.
Initially a chamfer is cut from the end of the pipe. Despite the tapered position of the blades, this will extend the life of the machine.
Cooling lubricant is used to simplify the machining of metal cutting tools. Some use cleaning fluid for this purpose, others use used oil or grease.
The pipe itself and the pick must be coated with grease. The ideal tool is threadlocking solideol. If it is not available, diesel fuel or machine oil are used as an alternative.
However, such types of grease have a negative effect on the quality of the finished thread. There should not be a lot of grease, otherwise there is no way to avoid tearing during reinforced slicing.
The pipe must be well held, especially in the case where it is welded to the riser. It is necessary to exclude the probability of riser pipe spinning and weld breakage.
It is necessary to exclude the risk of damaging the communication system of the whole house. Fix the tongs on the metal pipe with the cutters on the outer side.
Then proceed to screwing on the device. The first turns are made slowly, constantly checking for misalignment. If everything is done correctly, the entire thread will be perfect.
You need to rotate the device as hard as possible. As soon as they appear, it is an indication that the cutters are clogged with metal shavings.
To get rid of them you need to rotate the tool backwards a turn or a half-turn.
After that, you can continue turning forward. The technique of turning in different directions prevents the blades from overheating and causes less blade wear.
This improves the quality of the thread and prevents gapping. A total of 4 complete turns should be obtained during the threading process. Such a connection will be reliable and practical.
It is not necessary to focus on pipe equipment with 2 or 3 turns. Their number is not a guarantee for a tight connection.
At the end of the work it is difficult to screw on a tap or a union. This is attributable to the taper due to the special feature of the clip-on comb. The problem is solved by lubricating the threads and re-running the device.
When removing metal does not produce the desired result, you cannot do without disassembling the clip. It is necessary to remove the fixed cutters and turn them over to the opposite side so that the narrow comb with large cutting edges can be screwed forward onto the pipe.
The clevis will go easy for a couple of turns, then it will start to remove chips. Not knowing about it, beginners screw the cutters more than 4 turns. So the cone starts further.
But it is not always possible. For example, this cannot be done when you need to thread a small section of pipe, or when it comes out of the wall if there is little room to rotate.
In order for the tool to serve longer, in addition to chamfering, you need to remove rust and paint from the pipe, where the thread will be threaded, before starting work. This is done using a file or an angle grinder with an emery wheel.